Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                S S S  
T                 T T T
                  P P  

(Best months for growing Tomato in Australia - temperate regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed

August: Frost tender. Start undercover

  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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28 Sep 13, allen lee (Australia - temperate climate)
In regards to those aphids under the leaves may actually be white fly these tend to scatter when disturbed if so I found that sticky traps yellow in colour work very well they are sold in most hardware and nurseries. Hung around plants with infested bugs you will be amazed how well they work and no need for spray.
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27 Sep 13, allen lee (Australia - temperate climate)
Just a reminder to all those having problems with fruit fly in their tomatoes capsicum etc please ensure if you do find them in your fruit or vegetables pick up the infected fruit destroy by sealing in plastic bag leave in sun to destroy maggots if you don't the grubs will multiply giving you a bigger job next season in ridding of them at extra cost to your pocket ! PS DON'T just throw in the bin seal first ' From little things big thing grow"....
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28 Jul 13, Jo (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi All, I have tried and tried to grow heirloom toms from seed. Brought a heat pad - think I cooked the plants, tried another lot - left them to their own devices, they didn't germinate. But SSSOOOOOO much more annoying was the ones I found in the crack of the path that had germinated...... Help - what am I doing wrong ?. thanks Jo
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09 Sep 13, Chris (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Jo, Am guessing the issue was you left the heat pad in play after the emergence of the seeds at full heat. I have a heat pad which I am using for the first time and it says to space the plat tray above the heat pad as required to achieve the temp required. Not sure how to do this yet but this may be the issue. They say you need 16 to 35 degrees to germinate. Own devices may have been a bit cool. Guessing only
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19 Jun 13, Dean (Australia - temperate climate)
I have two tomato plants growing in Emerald QLD. One is a determinate plant with tomato's similar shape to a roma and the other is on a stake(nice round tomato's), they come up by themselves. They both have good big green tomato's on them but will not ripen. Can anyone suggest why they are not ripening?
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05 Aug 13, jess (Australia - temperate climate)
try giving them more shade and water them 2-3 times a day :-)
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24 May 13, steve (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
how long do plants last ? tks steve
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11 Mar 13, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
what tomatoes grow best in sub tropical queensland, bundaberg
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27 Apr 13, jade (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
cherry tomatoes grow as weeds, also romas, in Brisbane. The smaller the easier as you can get them before the bugs do.
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22 Jan 13, Martin (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Start with an application of fresh Human Urine. 1 part to 9 parts Water diluted. Do not use within approx 3 weeks of harvest for best results. It will also increase your yield 25-40% You can also try lady beetles, ladybirds. And Also try powdered Dimatacious Earth, DE
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Showing 351 - 360 of 595 comments
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More information is needed: for example amount of water... soil conditions. The MOST GENERIC, and probably most correct answer is LACK OF NUTRIENTS. Most people plant their plants (tomato) adding lots of compost and/or manure at the time of planting. The plant grows using the nutrients (some are washed away... maybe trees manage to confiscate some nutrients); but as the soil nutrition drops, the plant, still wanting to grow, starts to take nutrition from its lower leaves so it can grow leaves higher up. That is, it is deciding how to best used it's own self to maximize it chances of success; since it can't source the needed nutrition from the soil What you need to do is: ADD manure or compost or anything else you may have to put nutrition back into the soil. I rinse my coffee pot in the garden, I also try to drain things (like the water from soaking dried beans) into the garden. Manure/compost/nutrition (in any form) needs to be added at planting, middle of the season, and close to the end of the season to give that LAST burst of energy to bring the fruit/vegetables into full form. Don't feel like you need to spend a lot of money; get creative; in Canada we can stop by our local coffee shops and pick up the days used grinds for use in our gardens (free); you can add micro nutrients to your garden by filling a pail with water and adding a layer of rocks (rocks are minerals) stir and use this to water your plants. Left over tea bags, left over coffee grinds, stuff that you might rinse down the sink (food juices), blood from meat when you wash it before cooking it ..... anything like that all puts nutrition back in the soil.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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