Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                S S S  
T                 T T T
                  P P  

(Best months for growing Tomato in Australia - temperate regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed

August: Frost tender. Start undercover

  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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28 Dec 13, Julie (Australia - temperate climate)
Sam, We are borderline cool to temperate. We find that Roma will be later than cherry tomato type or beefsteak type. Try some Powerfeed Red for vegetables and also some potash to boost growth and flowering.
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21 Dec 13, Andrew (Australia - temperate climate)
I read somewhere, but I can't locate the source, that over fertilising produces lush foliage but inhibits flowering. Have you been smashing the fertiliser? That includes Seasol and Powerfeed too. Do a little research on nutrient needs for tomatoes. I do know that as they begin to fruit they benefit from a potash rich dressing.
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13 Dec 13, Ian hansen (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Types tomatoes to grow in summer in sub tropical climate
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13 Dec 13, Sam (Australia - temperate climate)
I'm growing roma tomatoes. They are a determinate variety. I kept them in pots for a bit too long before transplanting them. They were still relatively small when they went into the garden. Shortly after transplanting the plants flowered. Now I have one or two small fruit setting on each plant. I will be very disappointed if I only get 2 fruit per plant, so I am thinking of cutting these fruit off, and hoping the plants grow bigger before flowering again. Hopefully next time round I get more fruit. Would this work?
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13 Nov 13, Coral (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Our tomatoes have grown tall, but very few flowers . Have you any advice?
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19 Dec 13, Roachelle (Australia - temperate climate)
Im having the same problem... i have very healthy looking plants .. lots of leaves etc... but hardly any flowers... Ive only gotten 1 fruit off so far. what have i done wrong?
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02 Jan 14, Sarah (Australia - temperate climate)
The tomatoes grow little stems in the corners if other stems, they take much of the nutrients to grow and slow the fruit. If they look like they're not going to fruit, just snap them off. My tomato plants popped up out of nowhere in my dad's yard (presumably a birds dinner one night) so we moved them to my house. When he told me about these little stems I wasn't sure, but I have 3 plants, 2 of which I removed these from and they are fruiting much more efficiently than the one I left alone.
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07 Feb 16, Penny (Australia - temperate climate)
Too tall and leafy usually means too much nitrogen (i.e. richness, fertility). See later comments re ash, minerals etc.
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13 Nov 13, alby (Australia - temperate climate)
tomatos growing with plenty of flowers problem yellow black leaves killing them.would love some tips?
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08 Oct 13, Ferah (Australia - tropical climate)
I just wanted to say what a wonderful site this is. As someone who has just discovered the joy of edible gardening (despite many years of my mother trying to convert me!!), it is providing me with the basic and invaluable knowledge to help get me on the right track. I also really enjoy reading the Q&A posts and am picking up a lot of great tips. Thank you xoxo
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Showing 341 - 350 of 595 comments
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More information is needed: for example amount of water... soil conditions. The MOST GENERIC, and probably most correct answer is LACK OF NUTRIENTS. Most people plant their plants (tomato) adding lots of compost and/or manure at the time of planting. The plant grows using the nutrients (some are washed away... maybe trees manage to confiscate some nutrients); but as the soil nutrition drops, the plant, still wanting to grow, starts to take nutrition from its lower leaves so it can grow leaves higher up. That is, it is deciding how to best used it's own self to maximize it chances of success; since it can't source the needed nutrition from the soil What you need to do is: ADD manure or compost or anything else you may have to put nutrition back into the soil. I rinse my coffee pot in the garden, I also try to drain things (like the water from soaking dried beans) into the garden. Manure/compost/nutrition (in any form) needs to be added at planting, middle of the season, and close to the end of the season to give that LAST burst of energy to bring the fruit/vegetables into full form. Don't feel like you need to spend a lot of money; get creative; in Canada we can stop by our local coffee shops and pick up the days used grinds for use in our gardens (free); you can add micro nutrients to your garden by filling a pail with water and adding a layer of rocks (rocks are minerals) stir and use this to water your plants. Left over tea bags, left over coffee grinds, stuff that you might rinse down the sink (food juices), blood from meat when you wash it before cooking it ..... anything like that all puts nutrition back in the soil.

- Celeste Archer

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