Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      P P              

(Best months for growing Potato in Australia - tropical regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 10°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 30 - 40 cm apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

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14 Dec 08, John (Australia - temperate climate)
I am interested in growing spuds in a cage tower. Can anyone tell me if using pelleted fertilzer such as dynamic lifter be as successful as using one of the suggested animal manures? Also, has anyone tried growing spuds in summer and if so with what success?
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10 Dec 08, Jennie (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I also am having trouble with my first crop of potatoes (in Sydney) I have planted most in vegie garden and some in pots. With the ones in the vegie garden two thirds have died off before flowering - one third are starting to flower but don't look too healthy. The ones in the pots haven't flowered yet. They were planted end of July. Any ideas greatly appreciated!
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08 Dec 08, Geraldine (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Can anyone advise if I should be concerned that my potaoes (planted late Aug in Syd) are dying off without having flowered? This is my first year with potatos and I'm nut sure exactly how long they take; I was planning on waiting till they flowered then died down to harvest.
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05 Dec 08, Michael (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
We live in the Blue Mountains NSW and would like to plant an Idaho potato. Can any advise on where to buy plants and any growing tips?
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17 Jul 11, Paul (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I'm an American expat living on the Gold Coast. I too have tried to find a source for a good old Idaho potatoes in Australia...So far I haven't had any luck. Idaho's are fantastic potatoes...especially baked. They taste like a real potato!!! Their relatively thick skins make great 'potato skins'...a great snack or appetizer...also unavailable in Australia. I always head straight for the supermarket and stock up on Idaho's when I'm back in the real world!!! One misses out on a lot living here in Oz!!!
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26 Nov 08, Gaungoo Lutchuman (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Am from Mauritius Potatoes cultivation is very popular in Mauritius,the seeds is usually fro australia,Western potatoes,but this year it was inferior in quality, it did not develped as it should be, poor harvest in the country
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28 Oct 08, Grant (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Thanks Geoff on the info regarding growing spuds in tyres. I experimented this year with a few left over that I didnt plant in my beds. I think i'll remove them and stick to using my garden beds
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22 Oct 08, Geoff Brooks (Australia - temperate climate)
I would like to endorse the comments above regarding the use of tyres to grow Potatoes or in fact use to grow any any food. The rubber compounds in both the carcase and tread contain significant numbers of nasties. Tyres are designed to perform at high speed under quite arduous conditions, absolutely not designed as end of life food growing receptacles! They contain many potential hazards/chemicals, far too many to fully list. I will list just a couple,so that fellow readers who do not have my background can appreciate better what they are dealing with. Firstly the reinforcing Carbon Blacks utilized in the rubber compounds, contain significant amounts of Organo-Nitrogen compounds, blacks of this type are banned for use with any "Potable Water" applications! the reason being these compounds are considered as being high risk carciogens. There are special Blacks made specifically for food contact applications, rubber reinforcing blacks are definitely not suitable. Processing aids, The rubber in the tyres must be made to be strong/resilient/heat resistant; specially designed chemical compounds are encorporated into the rubber compounds to achieve this. The chemical compounds used present problems in many directions, firstly they are not ( dont need to be) pure compounds they contain debris from the chemical synthesis processes used to make them; these same compounds also decompose both during Vulcanization and during the life of the tyre. The Organo-Chemical families many of these compounds belong to include compounds that are considered hazardous and not suitable for food contact. The possibility of side chemical reactions between both the impurities and the debris from the degradation, resulting in compounds that could present significant hazards is real. Are tyres dangerous? yes! when attached to cars driven by idiots and when used as receptacles to grow food; otherwise no!
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20 Oct 08, Mary (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Hi fellow spudsters, I grew my first crop of potatoes last year. I had two lots; some I grew in hessian sacks and some I planted in the ground in a patch of soil/horse manure/compost mix. The sacks I kept topping up with a mix of potting mix/horse manure and staw - each time the stalks grew up I covered them. The spuds in the ground I more of less just left, every now and then I covered them with an extra bit of straw. Into both lots I shook some vegetable fertilizer specific for potatoes (can't remember what it was called but it look a bit like big white salt crystals). Both ways of growing were very very successful - very many spuds and very very yummo! I had about four or five different types of spuds and pulling them up was a great surprise because I just bunged them all in together and have no idea which was which but they were all really really lovely. Genuinely better than any I have every bought from a shop. I guess the ones in the shop must be stored for quite a while. I harveted that lot in March this year. The bags seemed to be a lot of work though, so this year I have planted spuds (a month ago - 20 September) in the vegie patch (mix of vegie potting mix, manure - sheep pooh I think and lucerne mulch) and covered them with pea straw. As they sprout all I plan to do is throw a bit of potato fertilizer about and cover the green parts with straw as they grow. These ones I have actually marked which is which. Lessens the surprise I guess but will be fun knowing which one I am eating.
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19 Oct 08, Geraldine (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Regarding building up soil around potato stalk; I have read on other sites/forums that one should start building soil up once the first tubers start forming. It makes more sense to actually build up around the stalk though; does any one else have experience to share regarding this? I do think my spud plants could do with some support about now; I'm growing in Sydney. Thank you
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Technically you don't HAVE TO HILL any variety of potatoes. Here's how it works: you plant the seed potato (which is an extra small potato saved/stored from last year's harvest -- or a piece of a larger potato that you stored/saved from last year) -- the DEPTH THAT you PLANT that SEED POTATO determines your LOWEST POINT -- GENERALLY, and I do mean GENERALLY (like 95% of the potatoes) the potato plant will not create tubers LOWER than the depth you planted the seed potato at (so your seed potato is the BOTTOM of the plants tubers/potatoes). Which is why some people think the very bottom potato always rots, when in reality it is the seed potato and is expected to grow and will appear rotten. Which means if you don't hill up as your potato plant grows and you planted the seed potato shallow, there is not that much ROOM for the potato plant to put it's tubers, and larger tubers will usually "pop" out of the soil and turn green due to sun exposure. If you don't want to hill up, plant your seed potato deeper than recommended -- yes it will be fine -- the reason you plant shallow and mound up is because the potato plant will be able to get leaves into the sun sooner if it's seed potato was planted shallow, which means it will grow quicker because it is collecting light sooner -- then you mound up to offset that you planted the seed potato shallow, but you always leave lots of leaves exposed to the sun so the plant can collect sun and grow. It's a lot of extra work work to mound up soil-- and maybe speeds up the process "brings in the harvest" by 10 days or so.... My experience is planting seed potatoes a foot deep ((30cm) is fine -- yes the plant takes a little longer for it's leaves to surface -- but it's fine and you should not experience any problems - provided the soil is nice and loose. (hopefully that makes senses). I think in the future I will plant two potatoes side by side -- one deep, one using the mound method and record the progress and final outcomes... I have never done a tandem planting -- BUT I HAVE had potatoes spring up from deep down Once as I dug out one of these "self planted potatoes" I realized it was down about 30" (70cm) -- it was in a potato planting tower (old full size garbage can full of 3" holes all over) which I dumped and collect the potatoes from the year before, then just put the soil back, week by week, as I composted kitchen scraps directly into the soil... so no surprise that a potato was so deep -- it grew -- it put out potatoes and it's crop was average good... it spent a lot of energy growing up -- and perhaps I harvested too early based on the other potatoes-- but it made it and did OK, good size potatoes, good quantity. I would not recommend placing your seed potatoes that deep, but a foot (30cm) should be fine.

- Celeste Archer

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