Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      P P              

(Best months for growing Potato in Australia - tropical regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 10°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 30 - 40 cm apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

02 Aug 16, Sam (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanks, that is helpful. I will try this
24 Feb 16, Carol (Australia - temperate climate)
I grew my potatoes in bags and pots and 90% died because of heat, humidity and triple rainfall than usual. Next I am trying beds and the no dig method. I'm getting seed potatoes in March and seeing how I go. I'm sticking to sweet potatoes in the hotter months.
27 Feb 16, John (United Kingdom - cool/temperate climate)
We dhave bought our seed potatoes and will chitting them before planting out in March, Not sure how this equates to the growing season where you are. https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/grow-your-own/vegetables/potatoes?type=v
17 Nov 15, Trevor Burford (Australia - temperate climate)
I have some self seeded potatoes growing amongst my tomatoes and pumpkins. Why is this not advised?
18 Nov 15, Chris (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Tomatoes and potatoes are both in the 'nightshade' family and share many of the same diseases and pests. Something that attacks one (particularly fungii) will probably move on to attack the other.
15 Nov 15, Alexis (Australia - temperate climate)
I'm in brisbane and I'm wanting to try my hand at potatoes in a barrel. is November too late to plant them or am I best waiting till next season?
14 Nov 15, Dave (Australia - temperate climate)
I am trying to grow spuds the same way Pete Cundall did on Patch from Scratch. I put them on newspaper, cow manure, blood and bone and covered with about 18" of sugar cane mulch and watered in. All I have done since is mound leaves.
27 Jun 16, MEL (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Did this work? Sounds great!
31 Oct 15, michelle (Australia - temperate climate)
I am moving to tara Queensland and was wanting to grow potatoes could you please tell me what is the best thing to grow there.
29 Oct 15, alan jones (Australia - temperate climate)
I tried growing potatoes from tubers from Bunnings.I grew them in a wall compound 250mm high, as they grew I back filled and put another course of bricks on top giving me 500mm in height. They grew well but later did not come to flower??. In time the plants slowly died off and once dead I set about getting the spuds out. I was dissappointed as there was a little crop and most were the size of a large grape, and only 4 were useable. It looked like they could have spent another month or so to grow bigger, but plant was dead and shrivelled up?? Can anyone give advice what I have done wrong and what to do next season thanks Alan
Showing 251 - 260 of 561 comments

Technically you don't HAVE TO HILL any variety of potatoes. Here's how it works: you plant the seed potato (which is an extra small potato saved/stored from last year's harvest -- or a piece of a larger potato that you stored/saved from last year) -- the DEPTH THAT you PLANT that SEED POTATO determines your LOWEST POINT -- GENERALLY, and I do mean GENERALLY (like 95% of the potatoes) the potato plant will not create tubers LOWER than the depth you planted the seed potato at (so your seed potato is the BOTTOM of the plants tubers/potatoes). Which is why some people think the very bottom potato always rots, when in reality it is the seed potato and is expected to grow and will appear rotten. Which means if you don't hill up as your potato plant grows and you planted the seed potato shallow, there is not that much ROOM for the potato plant to put it's tubers, and larger tubers will usually "pop" out of the soil and turn green due to sun exposure. If you don't want to hill up, plant your seed potato deeper than recommended -- yes it will be fine -- the reason you plant shallow and mound up is because the potato plant will be able to get leaves into the sun sooner if it's seed potato was planted shallow, which means it will grow quicker because it is collecting light sooner -- then you mound up to offset that you planted the seed potato shallow, but you always leave lots of leaves exposed to the sun so the plant can collect sun and grow. It's a lot of extra work work to mound up soil-- and maybe speeds up the process "brings in the harvest" by 10 days or so.... My experience is planting seed potatoes a foot deep ((30cm) is fine -- yes the plant takes a little longer for it's leaves to surface -- but it's fine and you should not experience any problems - provided the soil is nice and loose. (hopefully that makes senses). I think in the future I will plant two potatoes side by side -- one deep, one using the mound method and record the progress and final outcomes... I have never done a tandem planting -- BUT I HAVE had potatoes spring up from deep down Once as I dug out one of these "self planted potatoes" I realized it was down about 30" (70cm) -- it was in a potato planting tower (old full size garbage can full of 3" holes all over) which I dumped and collect the potatoes from the year before, then just put the soil back, week by week, as I composted kitchen scraps directly into the soil... so no surprise that a potato was so deep -- it grew -- it put out potatoes and it's crop was average good... it spent a lot of energy growing up -- and perhaps I harvested too early based on the other potatoes-- but it made it and did OK, good size potatoes, good quantity. I would not recommend placing your seed potatoes that deep, but a foot (30cm) should be fine.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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