Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      P P              

(Best months for growing Potato in Australia - tropical regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 10°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 30 - 40 cm apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

29 Sep 16, chris (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
No they are of the same family, try changing the soil around and giving fresh soil to the bed , then planting.
28 Jul 16, graham paul (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
What is the PH required for potatoes? Thanking you, Graham
24 Jul 16, Anthony Scanlon (Australia - temperate climate)
I.planted my seed potatoes in large tubs late May I have kept topping them up they have reached the top of tubs large folage very healthy what to do next. Regards Anthony
03 Oct 16, Lachlan (Australia - temperate climate)
Wait till foliage dies then harvest.
14 Jul 16, Ian (Australia - tropical climate)
Hi we live in Vanuatu south pacific and I was hoping to grow some spuds , we grow kumala here but some white potatoes would be a nice addition. Any thoughts Thanks Ian
26 Jul 16, Trish (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi Ian, I'm no expert, but I think that your climate is too tropical for potatoes. I've tried in the past in Brisbane & Gold Coast in the winter, but they quickly rot. I think sweet potatoes are the way to go.
12 Jul 16, Harry (Australia - temperate climate)
I am trying some spouted spuds, planting now July in Sydney.
14 May 16, AGOES SOEDJARWO (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
When the best month to grow potatoes in Katoomba Blue Mountains? Thank you Regards AWS
14 Mar 16, (Australia - temperate climate)
I have 1 long green cattle water trough with a plug for drainage. Have filled it with a mix of soul, compost and chicken manure. I will try and grow on row in that and see how we go. It is hot and humid here so will have to see how it goes. Also have a half small rainwater tank with a good mix of compost and soil and will also try to grow some in that. Fingers crossed.
05 Mar 16, Alan (Australia - temperate climate)
We grow two crops a year, one through spring & the other through autumn storing them in the garage in a black 50lt container & lid we bought from Bunnings. Don't ever wash them before storage & always keep the lid on so they remain in the dark.
Showing 241 - 250 of 561 comments

Technically you don't HAVE TO HILL any variety of potatoes. Here's how it works: you plant the seed potato (which is an extra small potato saved/stored from last year's harvest -- or a piece of a larger potato that you stored/saved from last year) -- the DEPTH THAT you PLANT that SEED POTATO determines your LOWEST POINT -- GENERALLY, and I do mean GENERALLY (like 95% of the potatoes) the potato plant will not create tubers LOWER than the depth you planted the seed potato at (so your seed potato is the BOTTOM of the plants tubers/potatoes). Which is why some people think the very bottom potato always rots, when in reality it is the seed potato and is expected to grow and will appear rotten. Which means if you don't hill up as your potato plant grows and you planted the seed potato shallow, there is not that much ROOM for the potato plant to put it's tubers, and larger tubers will usually "pop" out of the soil and turn green due to sun exposure. If you don't want to hill up, plant your seed potato deeper than recommended -- yes it will be fine -- the reason you plant shallow and mound up is because the potato plant will be able to get leaves into the sun sooner if it's seed potato was planted shallow, which means it will grow quicker because it is collecting light sooner -- then you mound up to offset that you planted the seed potato shallow, but you always leave lots of leaves exposed to the sun so the plant can collect sun and grow. It's a lot of extra work work to mound up soil-- and maybe speeds up the process "brings in the harvest" by 10 days or so.... My experience is planting seed potatoes a foot deep ((30cm) is fine -- yes the plant takes a little longer for it's leaves to surface -- but it's fine and you should not experience any problems - provided the soil is nice and loose. (hopefully that makes senses). I think in the future I will plant two potatoes side by side -- one deep, one using the mound method and record the progress and final outcomes... I have never done a tandem planting -- BUT I HAVE had potatoes spring up from deep down Once as I dug out one of these "self planted potatoes" I realized it was down about 30" (70cm) -- it was in a potato planting tower (old full size garbage can full of 3" holes all over) which I dumped and collect the potatoes from the year before, then just put the soil back, week by week, as I composted kitchen scraps directly into the soil... so no surprise that a potato was so deep -- it grew -- it put out potatoes and it's crop was average good... it spent a lot of energy growing up -- and perhaps I harvested too early based on the other potatoes-- but it made it and did OK, good size potatoes, good quantity. I would not recommend placing your seed potatoes that deep, but a foot (30cm) should be fine.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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