Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                S S S  
T                 T T T
                  P P  

(Best months for growing Tomato in Australia - temperate regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed

August: Frost tender. Start undercover

  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

03 Feb 11, Sam (Australia - temperate climate)
I had the same issue issue last year and a friend suggested hanging yellow and red christmas baubles on the vines before it starts fruiting. Birds will go for these first without success and, hopefully, leave your ripening tomatos alone. That's my plan for this year, anyway.
04 Feb 11, Chris (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I'll try that on my plum trees next year!
14 Jan 11, kate (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I am no expert, but I read somewhere that you can put banana skin under the mulch or in the soil and the potassium helps with flower production. I tried this and also made a tea of banana skins which I apply (diluted) weekly. It seems to work! There are lots of flowers and fruit even though we have had a very slow start to summer here.
08 Jan 11, dino (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi my tomatoes are growing OK , but are not showing any sign on flowers, I have had them in for weeks now.
30 Dec 10, Mick and Paula (Australia - temperate climate)
I have tomatoes at 1.5 metres and the fruit is large on all plants. The problem is the plants look like they are starting to die off before the fruit ripens. We have chook so i have placed the waste on the ground around the plants ( the waste is a week old before it goes on). Suggestions please.
01 Dec 10, Colleen (Australia - temperate climate)
we've had so much rain, the soil in places is boggy but my tomatoes are in a new slightly raised bed. I've noticed blossom end rot on many of the plants. I guess the calcium has been leached out of the soil with all this rain, should I add some lime?
28 Dec 10, Pat Lightfoot (Australia - temperate climate)
From experience night temps will stop flowers from bearing fruit. We in Armidale (Northern Tablelands NSW) have experienced 1 C over the last few weeks at night. However, I have pot plants in a secure under the eves and one self seeded plant lived through winter, and has beared a few fruit. Not the most healthy looking either. But has three tomatoes on it.I don't think Armidale is the best place to have tomatoes unless in a green house. They grow well but don't bear much fruit, as night time temps go beneath 10 C.
16 Nov 10, Pyley (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi David.. Whitefly can be controlled by using a low toxic product called Natrasoap. It suffocates the pests, then they dry up and fall off. You can also add a few drops of Peppermint or Eucalyptus oil as well.
15 Nov 10, David (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Help!! Dear All, I live in St Kilda in Victoria, my Tomatos which are only a couple of feet high are covered in clouds of whitefly, Ive tried everything, concoctions of sunlight soap and vinegar, pyrethrum, you name it but nothing seems to work. I have heard companion planting in conjunction with at least one other method is the best way but as i have tried so many different methods, i am somewhat sceptical. Does anyone have any tried and true methods to stop whitefly (other than not growing tomoatos)?
17 Jan 11, Grace (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi David, I'm not sure if you have found a solution to your whitefly problem, but I thought i'd post this anyhow. I haven't tried this yet, but I saw a great segment on GA ages ago where Colin uses a vegemite 'tea' to attract lacewing, whitefly's natural predator. I found the fact sheet for you, but I can't post it. Just google it: Gardening Australia, fact sheet 'home-made remedies', series 20, ep 22, Presenter: Colin Campbell, 27/06/2009 Also, basil is a great companion plant to tomatoes, I tend to interplant them between rows. I hope this helps, and isn't too late!
Showing 451 - 460 of 602 comments

More information is needed: for example amount of water... soil conditions. The MOST GENERIC, and probably most correct answer is LACK OF NUTRIENTS. Most people plant their plants (tomato) adding lots of compost and/or manure at the time of planting. The plant grows using the nutrients (some are washed away... maybe trees manage to confiscate some nutrients); but as the soil nutrition drops, the plant, still wanting to grow, starts to take nutrition from its lower leaves so it can grow leaves higher up. That is, it is deciding how to best used it's own self to maximize it chances of success; since it can't source the needed nutrition from the soil What you need to do is: ADD manure or compost or anything else you may have to put nutrition back into the soil. I rinse my coffee pot in the garden, I also try to drain things (like the water from soaking dried beans) into the garden. Manure/compost/nutrition (in any form) needs to be added at planting, middle of the season, and close to the end of the season to give that LAST burst of energy to bring the fruit/vegetables into full form. Don't feel like you need to spend a lot of money; get creative; in Canada we can stop by our local coffee shops and pick up the days used grinds for use in our gardens (free); you can add micro nutrients to your garden by filling a pail with water and adding a layer of rocks (rocks are minerals) stir and use this to water your plants. Left over tea bags, left over coffee grinds, stuff that you might rinse down the sink (food juices), blood from meat when you wash it before cooking it ..... anything like that all puts nutrition back in the soil.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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