Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                S S S  
T                 T T T
                  P P  

(Best months for growing Tomato in Australia - temperate regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed

August: Frost tender. Start undercover

  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

30 Jan 12, stella (Australia - temperate climate)
i amm growing gross lisse variety of tomatoes they are pretty huge on the vines but none of them are ripening as of yet ..what should i do theplants are a fairly average size with los of leaves and flowers and unripe fruits..
30 Jan 12, Reg Parker (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Stella, Your fruit will ripen, however I strongly suggest that you rid your plants of ALL LEAVES except the for the top (3), you will notice that you have a flowering stem, then a leaf stem then a flowering, get rid of all non flowering stems, you will do yourself and your vines a great favour....leaves only pull the nutrients away from the fruit, block sunlight & air circulation , create disease and attract pests. Also use a liquid fertilizer 2-3 times a week, you will have sweeter, juicier fruit and more than you can possibly even give away. DON'T BE AFRAID TO STRIP THOSE LEAVES> Reg
13 Feb 12, (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanks very much for your advice I have been harvesting juicy red tomatoes now!!!
16 Jan 12, Irene (Australia - temperate climate)
Planted Apollo Tomatoes Improved: They were fruiting beautifully until today I saw what looks like teeny blemishes, tiny dints like pin pricks coming on them...they are still unripe and more are coming what can I do to save the crop or is this a normal part of the process. By the way we have had a lot of rain but the drainage is fine. Thank you
15 Sep 13, Jessica Vivien (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Irene, I'm in Perth, I had this problem a couple of years ago, and the culprits were green shield bugs. I could not find a suitable treatment apart from picking these off by hand. They wrecked most of my tomatoes except the cherries and a Roma. Part of the problem was that I was growing them in a spot well sheltered from wind, and too close together I think, which provided perfect conditions for the beetles. I have now build an enclosed vegetable garden covered with quarter inch netting, which keeps out the adult beetles so they cannot lay eggs around this area, and the babies would have to walk a very long way to get in. My enclosed garden also keeps out cabbage butterfly, parrots, possums, rats, bandicoots, large snails. I still have to contend with slugs and slaters though.
21 Jan 12, Bec (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Sounds like fruit fly. Try hanging some fruit fly traps around and yellow sticky traps. Had this problem last year but since hanging up a eco-lure no problems this season.
04 Jan 12, Dianne (Australia - temperate climate)
Is it too late to put more tomato plants in the garden
06 Jan 12, Miguel (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Dianne, I've grown tomatoes as late as December, shortly before Christmas. I've had success but got only a small handful of tomatoes. They ripened on the windowsill as there was not enough sunlight or time to vine rippen them and some tasted a little bland. So in answer to your question, you can plant tomatoes now but don't expect them to give you more than 2-3 green tomatoes each plant.
31 Jan 12, tim (Australia - temperate climate)
try tommy toe. i have grown them from february and picked full flavoured fruit through to end of june in southern riverina in frost free years.
02 Jan 12, Cathy (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I am growing Grosse Lisse tomatoes, they have fruited well but the fruit is splitting before they are ripe. Does anyone have any ideas as to why this is happening?
Showing 401 - 410 of 602 comments

More information is needed: for example amount of water... soil conditions. The MOST GENERIC, and probably most correct answer is LACK OF NUTRIENTS. Most people plant their plants (tomato) adding lots of compost and/or manure at the time of planting. The plant grows using the nutrients (some are washed away... maybe trees manage to confiscate some nutrients); but as the soil nutrition drops, the plant, still wanting to grow, starts to take nutrition from its lower leaves so it can grow leaves higher up. That is, it is deciding how to best used it's own self to maximize it chances of success; since it can't source the needed nutrition from the soil What you need to do is: ADD manure or compost or anything else you may have to put nutrition back into the soil. I rinse my coffee pot in the garden, I also try to drain things (like the water from soaking dried beans) into the garden. Manure/compost/nutrition (in any form) needs to be added at planting, middle of the season, and close to the end of the season to give that LAST burst of energy to bring the fruit/vegetables into full form. Don't feel like you need to spend a lot of money; get creative; in Canada we can stop by our local coffee shops and pick up the days used grinds for use in our gardens (free); you can add micro nutrients to your garden by filling a pail with water and adding a layer of rocks (rocks are minerals) stir and use this to water your plants. Left over tea bags, left over coffee grinds, stuff that you might rinse down the sink (food juices), blood from meat when you wash it before cooking it ..... anything like that all puts nutrition back in the soil.

- Celeste Archer

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