Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                S S S  
T                 T T T
                  P P  

(Best months for growing Tomato in Australia - temperate regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed

August: Frost tender. Start undercover

  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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14 Jul 13, Gary (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Sally have a look at magnesium deficiency on you tube also look into epsom salts on youtube. Hope this helps
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17 Feb 13, Charles L (Australia - temperate climate)
Yes, we've had some terribly hot weather here in Perth and a lot of my veggies quit producing....or died....no matter how much water they got. Some are recovering...starting to get cucumbers and tomatoes again - although a few of each didn't make it...half the beans died...the rest showed no signs of recovering, as in blooming, so ripped them out and starting all over....the other veggies look to be on the mend...Once the air temperature hits that blast furnace heat....not much you can do....they survive or they don't
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11 Jan 13, Charles L (Australia - temperate climate)
I usually grow a few varieties of tomatoes over the summer here in Perth (near Joondalup). Getting good results with Bonnie Best, Moneymaker etc. During the winter, the only success I've had so far is with Cherry tomatoes - which I grow on my patio. Out of most of the rain on the north side of the patio - but get several hours of sunshine (if there is any) during the day. The cherry tomatoes are fine for salads but not much else. Does anyone know of a larger tomato that can handle the Perth winter? I can keep them mostly dry...
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23 Jan 13, Elle (Australia - temperate climate)
Charles, I'd recommend Tigerella. I grew one plant in a large container in a sunny position under the patio last winter and was surprised at how well it did.
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13 Jan 13, ray (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Hi, i live in britain,.Our weather is changing as is most countries, try sub arctic plenty. S.A.P. let me know how you get on.
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24 Jan 15, Derek (Australia - temperate climate)
Charles L, Just wondering how the Siberian , variety went and where you got them from ?
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29 Jan 13, Charles L (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanks for the tips! Couldn't find sub arctic here....but found a local supplier for Siberian tomatoes which sounds similar enough, I'll give them a go. Still looking for Tigerella in Perth. Found something called Mr. Stripey which looks identical and will see if they handle the winter too.
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11 May 13, Derek (Australia - temperate climate)
I live in Perth and I grow a variety called Taste Sensation , we still have some in the freezer from the last crop ,which grew through the summer and now in May we have another bumper crop coming along they are a very heavy cropping, early fruiting variety and so much flavor, the fruits are of a medium size, brought them my local nursery as seedlings.
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23 Feb 13, Tracey (Australia - temperate climate)
Tigerella is available from the Diggers Club - they mail order seed and plants (but not sure about tomato plants) all over Oz. You could try Oregon Spring from Rangeview seed (I think it's a better flavour and stronger grower than Tigerella.
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21 Dec 12, Allen Lee (Australia - temperate climate)
Mulching of tomatoes is always a good practice and if you are short on stakes and have palm trees handy cut off one palm leaf strip off leaves use rib as stake replace later if needed. The reason for the chewed tomato underside are snails and during the night have a great feast and by the time you see them they are hidding on a full stomAch of tomatoes. The Slater isn't the problem he's just visitor enjoying the works of the snail and slugs. If the hole is a single small dot could be fruit fly if larger could be white cabbage moth.
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Showing 371 - 380 of 602 comments
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More information is needed: for example amount of water... soil conditions. The MOST GENERIC, and probably most correct answer is LACK OF NUTRIENTS. Most people plant their plants (tomato) adding lots of compost and/or manure at the time of planting. The plant grows using the nutrients (some are washed away... maybe trees manage to confiscate some nutrients); but as the soil nutrition drops, the plant, still wanting to grow, starts to take nutrition from its lower leaves so it can grow leaves higher up. That is, it is deciding how to best used it's own self to maximize it chances of success; since it can't source the needed nutrition from the soil What you need to do is: ADD manure or compost or anything else you may have to put nutrition back into the soil. I rinse my coffee pot in the garden, I also try to drain things (like the water from soaking dried beans) into the garden. Manure/compost/nutrition (in any form) needs to be added at planting, middle of the season, and close to the end of the season to give that LAST burst of energy to bring the fruit/vegetables into full form. Don't feel like you need to spend a lot of money; get creative; in Canada we can stop by our local coffee shops and pick up the days used grinds for use in our gardens (free); you can add micro nutrients to your garden by filling a pail with water and adding a layer of rocks (rocks are minerals) stir and use this to water your plants. Left over tea bags, left over coffee grinds, stuff that you might rinse down the sink (food juices), blood from meat when you wash it before cooking it ..... anything like that all puts nutrition back in the soil.

- Celeste Archer

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