Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                S S S  
T                 T T T
                  P P  

(Best months for growing Tomato in Australia - temperate regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed

August: Frost tender. Start undercover

  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

30 Dec 16, Phil (Australia - temperate climate)
You dont say much about your particular situaion, and I'm no expert. I had a similar issue with a potted Patio Prize but it was before I had whitefly/thrip. While I was watering it was hitting the leaves, and I think I overused tomato dust. The leaves not only curled, but they also went thick and felt waxy. Plant growth stunted and the small amount of fruit were really acidic tasting too (symptom of inefficient leaves). You should be able to rescue this plant by mulching and only watering the ground under the plant. Trim the worst couple of leaves/branches off every 5-7 days, continue as new growth takes hold. Google an appropriate fertiliser, i cant comment on that yet. New growth should take, but of course they then become a rich target for pests, enter my white fly problem as well. Gentle spray with confidor and rehash the sticky paper similar to the previous post. I'm not skilled enough to go chemical free yet.
28 Dec 16, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Sorry to hear about your tomato leaves curling. This can sometimes occur with variable weather, hot, cold, windy, but is more likely to be a virus transmitted by whitefly. Tose pesky little insects that swarm on beans, tomatoes,etc. They lift off when disturbed and then land again fairly quickly. They can be controlled by smearing vaseline on yellow cardboard or plastic; they like the bright colour. Check your state department of agriculture website, they have more information. Sorry I haven't been a lot of help.
30 Nov 16, Tia (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
We have a plague of small flying insects attacking tomato and tomato plants, capsicum etc. They pierce fruit multiple times all over, stunting maturity of produce. I've not seen them before. Of a night they cluster on my white picket fence, they are attracted to white. What are they? How do I control them naturally?
30 Nov 16, John (Australia - temperate climate)
If they are piercing the fruit they are sucking pests (bugs) so natural sprays such as Yates 'Natures Way' won't help. This spray works for chewing pests. If they like white and are clustering on the picket fence at night try 'greasing' the fence with petroleum jelly (vaseline). if they are not too large they will stick to it. You could also fix some white plastic, ice cream containers or lids to a stake and grease that instead. Trust this helps.
20 Nov 16, Wayne (Australia - temperate climate)
I have two different varieties of tomato growing and both are very bitter. What could be causing this? I have grown several crops over the years & this is the first time this has happened
18 Nov 16, Ross (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi, i have some tomato plants which are doing really well, but the white moths and small insects are attacking them, can you tell me how to stop these pests please
18 Nov 16, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Hello Ross, The white moths will most likely be White Fly which rise in a cloud when disturbed and lnd again fairly soon. A piece of bright yellow plastic or card smeared with petroleum jelly will sort them out. They are attracted to the bright colour and will stick to the greasy surface. it depends on what the small insects are, what to do. If they are a very small fly that can fly forwards, backwards and sideways they will be hover flies. They are beneficial and will be feeding on the white fly or aphids so don't try and get rid of them! If the insects or grubs are chewing the leaves or fruit you could use Yates 'Natures Way'. This is a bacterial spray and is harmless to anything but chewing pests. It is organically approved and is 'safe'. Trust this helps
26 Oct 16, Felicity (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Would love your Tips for growing tomatoes in the cooler climate of the Strathbogie ranges in Victoria. Approx 300 m above sea level We are wondering if we need plastic "igloos" to protect ? And any varieties that would be better suited to this climate Thanks !
18 Nov 16, John (Australia - temperate climate)
You could try starting off seeds inside in the base of an egg carton in September. That will give you a head start. The soil temperature needs to be 15-17 degrees for them to thrive, usually end of October or early November. Alternatively plant seed of short season varieties like Stupice (60 days). Most varieties that originated in the northern states of America, Canada or Europe will be suitable for a short growing season. Planting them in a sheltered position on a North, North-East or East situation will also help.
15 Oct 16, Di (Australia - temperate climate)
I always choose small, sweet Salerno cherry tomatoes at the shops and would like to grow that variety at home but have been unable to find it anywhere. Do you know if they are available in South Australia? Cheers, Di
Showing 221 - 230 of 595 comments

Little seedlings/plants need a light watering each day - if hot twice a day. Bigger plants need a good watering each 2-3 days. For pots - you need to check the top 10-20mm of soil to see if it is wet or dry. If dry then water. The size of the plant and pot will decide how often you water. You want your soil moist not wet wet. It is a bit of trial and error until you work it out.

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