Your comments and tips

03 Apr 17, Mike (Australia - temperate climate)

You are over watering by far too much. Depends on the soil and stage of the plants growth. Small plant do not need as much water as older plants. Say 4 plants - small plants would only need a few seconds a day and older plants 30-60 seconds. The soil should be moist not wet wet. Soil wet for a long time goes sour. A good idea is to break the top of the soil after a good down pour of rain etc. Soil needs aeration. If you mulch the soil then water each 2nd or 3rd day.

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30 Mar 17, Ken (Australia - temperate climate)

We often have issues like this in life. Tactful diplomacy is required. Tomatoes need 'consistent' water. this means that if they are continuously wet, rather than damp, they will not do well. l If they are 'wet then dry' they will suffer from Blossom End Rot due to irregular nutrient uptake and if they are too dry they will be slow to develop and often flower while quite small so that the plant can finish its life cycle before it dies. Brown and shrivelled leaves along with blotchy fruit suggests they plants are affected by soil born viruses. Soggy, wet soil will exacerbate this. Moist good draining soil is ideal for optimum growth and yield. Crop rotation and planting virus resistant varieties is also a MUST to control or reduce the effect of soil borne diseases. Slaters are normally only 'decomposers' and would generally only attack plants that are very stressed. Mushroom compost is already 'spent' and while can build up the soil it also increases the salinity. Trust this helps.

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29 Mar 17, Dorothy Spinks (Australia - temperate climate)

I have grown tomatoes this year and there is no problem. Have you tried growing cherry tomatoes, they seem to the hardiest variety. My friend who lives near Gloucester NSW cannot grow tomatoes where she is. I hope this is of some help.

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19 Mar 17, Kaycee (Australia - temperate climate)

I live in a temperate climate and have an area to container plant ( wicking beds) that is reasonably protected. Is it possible to raise tomato seedlings in wicking beds now, and later transplant them into a green house that is not ready yet? Thank you for taking the time to let me know.

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19 Mar 17, Jo (Australia - temperate climate)

Raised beds such as wicking beds will still be warm so if the seeds germinate you could rise them and then transplant them to the greenhouse. The window for germinating tomatoes outside is nearly closed so I suggest you put the seeds in small pots and sink them up to the neck in the beds so you can move them up and re-pot them with minimal disturbance ready for the greenhouse.

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19 Mar 17, (Australia - temperate climate)

Tomatoes in Gippsland Vic. I had a bad crop of Tomatoes this year. The tomatoes ripened with a yellow blotchy appearance. What would be causing this?

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20 Mar 17, Jack (Australia - temperate climate)

Sorry to hear about your bad run with tomatoes. I also live in Gippsland (Vic) and had the same problem with some of my tomato varieties last year but not others. I understand it is called Tomato (or Tobacco) Mosaic Virus. It is soil-borne and can also be transmitted by smokers when handling plants. I would look for virus-resistant varieties for next season and don't plant tomatoes, potatoes or capsicums in that spot for 3 seasons. We planted 'Tommy Toe' this year and have had an abundance of fruit with no disease. TT is a golf-ball sized tomato that bears heavily and has a great flavour.

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27 Mar 17, Meredith (Australia - temperate climate)

Thank you for this information. I fear I have spread it without knowing although I am not a smoker. What is the best way to discard the diseased plants now. I have been composting and I guess this helps to spread the virus. Meredith

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12 Feb 17, Joe (Australia - temperate climate)

I planted a crop 6 plants of Roma in virgin beds this year and did quite well, how ever in years gone by have had poor results in beds previously cropped with tomatoes, why is this so?

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13 Feb 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)

The tomatoes would have done well because of your 'virgin' beds. Vegetables have varying nutrient requirements, with leaf crops able to take lots of nitrogen from recently manured soil. If you follow a leaf crop with a fruit crop, such as tomatoes, beans or pumpkins (or plants from within that family), then complete the cycle with a root crop such as carrots you will end up with a fairly good balance. After the root crop add more manure or compost and start the cycle again. The only extra thing I will say is - don't plant tomatoes, capsicums, potatoes or egg plant in the same spot next year as this will encourage soil borne diseases that they are susceptible to. Trust this helps.

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