Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
        S S            
          T T          
          P            

(Best months for growing Tomato in Australia - tropical regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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30 Mar 20, Eddie (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
My dad said he used to pull the whole plant out and hang it in a shed and the tomatoes would vine ripen then finish off on the windowsill.
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04 Mar 20, ML (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Ethylene gas ripens tomatoes and some other fruit. Add a few bananas to them. Suggest you read up about how to ripen tomatoes on the internet. Read different articles. Also see if you can start your seedlings earlier in future so that they grow/ ripen earlier in future.
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08 Mar 20, anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Also most fruit take a few weeks from being fully developed to then ripen, 3-5 weeks. Same applies to pumpkin, rockmelons, watermelons etc.
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27 Feb 20, Luke (Australia - temperate climate)
Any advice on best cool climate tomato varieties for a greenhouse in Melbourne between March and October? Thanks in advance
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01 Mar 20, Anon (Australia - temperate climate)
You are temperate, a greenhouse will raise the temperature in it. Most varieties would grow in it. Ask at your local nursery etc.
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19 Jan 20, Carol (Australia - temperate climate)
To keep the slugs, caterpillars from Tomatoes and other vegetables away break egg shells up and spread around plants. Works great
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15 Jan 20, Mish (Australia - temperate climate)
We have been experiencing very hot, dry days. Up to 42 degrees Celsius. Could this be the reason that my tomato plants died? They were watered regularly & kept in the shade.
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15 Jan 20, Another gardener (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I think it could just be seasonal. My tomatoes were going great (Nov and into Dec picking) and towards the end the whole plant just died off quite quickly. Same conditions as you, hot weather. In a lot of crops you can have early mid and late season varieties.
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07 Jan 20, Bill (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
My butter beans plants are producing lots of beans that are growing and then curling up at the ends. What could be causing this and can i treat it with a fertilizer or a spray? I also have Zucchini that the flower covers all of the end rather then the tip they grow about 3-4 inches and then go yellow and shrivel up?
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09 Jan 20, Anon (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Research on the internet, what causes curly beans. Go the Gardening know how webpage and read. I think the zucchinis are a bit of a mutated seed or whatever. I had a plant like that, big fat end zucchinis with a big flower. Sounds like the female flowers are not being pollinated. Try it by hand.
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Showing 51 - 60 of 601 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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