Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
                    T T
                    P  

(Best months for growing Tomato in Australia - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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28 Jul 23, SilverShine (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
Does anyone know where I can source some seeds for the Alboran variety. It is a winter variety for very low temps.
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29 Jun 23, (Australia - temperate climate)
I live on the NSW Central Coast. I have been given some Siberian Tomato seeds from a fellow gardener. I have been told that they are pretty cold resistant. I planted seed in about April. All 5 seeds germinated. I gave 2 to a friend, planted one in a pot outside in half sun, and 2 in my garden. I killed the two in my garden with kindness. Too much fertiliser and water. The one in the bot has bloomed, is about 18 inches high and flowering. To complicate things there is a self sown Mini Roma which is about 3 ft high and booming, full of flowers and some fruit. Very keen to see how the Siberians will go through the winter. It is 1 July here cold nights frost free. Has anyone grown Siberians? Cheers Pete
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02 Jul 23, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Go to australian seed website and read about them - they just set fruit at lower temperatures, otherwise grow much the same as other toms. Better to grow just one bush in a 2-3' pot.
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19 Feb 23, Belinda (Australia - temperate climate)
Right now my tomatoes are very big and look almost successful however they arn't turning red?! A few of them have but the rest are just happy sitting in greenville for quite some time. I would love some help! I planted around october from memory. Its they are beefsteaks. Thank you so much for your help. I would love to show my 7 year old that we can do this!
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27 Feb 23, Judy (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Belinda, when I grew tomatoes in Armidale NSW, I used to pick them just as they started to turn, the put them somewhere dark and ripen them that way. Worked every time. Also didn't have to worry as much about birds and critters!
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20 Feb 23, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
They do take a while to ripen.
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02 Jun 22, KATE (Australia - tropical climate)
Tomato seedlings get up to about 2 inches high, then just fall over and die. Spinach did the same. In tropical Darwin. Tried growing seedlings in trays first, plant them out only to loose them about a week later. Trying to Grow in a raised bed as no success into garden soil. Raised bed built mostly of potting mixtures with bags of compost and sand added. Lots of Dynamic lifter, turned over and left fallow for the wet season. Seedlings did the same death rate in the raised bed. What am I missing. Been here for 3 years and first season crops were really abundant. Now everything dies except for my Lime, Lemon and Guava Trees. Is it just to hot for Tomatoes and spinach now?
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06 Jun 22, Anonymous (Australia - tropical climate)
Tropical climate - plant tomato seeds May, transplant June and July. Your soil mix is very porous, it would dry out very quickly especially in hot Darwin. And with watering it would leach out the fertilisers. With your soil mix you probably needed to water 3-4 times a day. The wet season probably leached all the Dynamic Lifter out of the soil. Ok- potting mix has a lot of wood in it. Material like this grabs the nitrogen before the plant does. Compost would do the same if it is not completely broken down. Here is what I do, sub tropical, in the fallow season Nov to April, I dig/turn my soil over adding grass clippings, shrub trimming etc mulched with the mower. With normal rain it will keep this moist and help break down the grass etc. You can add a little D Lifter. By late April /early May after the wet season you should have some good friable soil (depends what the original soil was like). You could add some more compost if you like and maybe manures, about 3-4 (?)
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01 Mar 22, Gary Hall (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Did anyone else have problems with tomatoes this year I had to convert back to my tiny Toms ( skin too tough for those pesky pests next year I going back to Nicotine spray that'll knock them around a bit) .
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07 Aug 22, Tom (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
My summer toms had a lot of rust but I kept cutting out the infected foliage and the rest of the plant produced just fine. The vines didn't look great but I had bumper crops of large, delicious tomatoes. Also a long season the seed came up in early spring and they produced for 6 months.
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Showing 11 - 20 of 601 comments
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Your Blossom end rot could be caused by the small pot. Try a 30L minimum for a tomato of up to 1m, and 50L+ tubs for anything taller. The problem in Northern NZ (Auckland upwards) in the intense heat, humidity, and constant winds on clear days that dry the soil. The soil seesaws from dry to wet, with us trying to compensate the loss three times a day, in small pots. You'll get excellent plants, but blossom end rot, and no useful fruit. I buy seeds from Southern suppliers who have clearly defined seasons in their districts. Here in West Auckland, the sun mid-spring onward is almost too strong for tomatoes (as noted in the comment from The Shore above), and the humidity is oppressive. They are part shade plants here, and 30L is absolute minimum for varieties that suppliers claim can be grown in 18L, or less. This year I'm using no less than 54L each plant, plus grass clipping mulch. So far so good. It's the only way to maintain soil a consistent moisture.

- Lee

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