Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Mar	Apr	May	Jun
S
	T	T	T
	P	P

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

S = Plant undercover in seed trays
T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
P = Sow seed

Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

01 Dec 19, Tom (Australia - temperate climate): What is the best fertilizer for tomatoes?
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16 Dec 19, Barbara (Australia - temperate climate): My tomato bushes are great and promise a bumper crop again this year. As my mother before me, I dig cow manure (from the shop) into the bed six weeks before planting the seedlings. My mother added liquid manure to hers as well.
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03 Dec 19, anon (Australia - temperate climate): A general all round fertiliser grows most things.
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29 Nov 19, Allan Fraser (Australia - temperate climate): my tomatoes are being bored into with some sort of caterpillars also some with black spots any ideas on how cure this organiclly or failing that anything to stop it ???
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17 Feb 20, Elizabeth (Australia - sub-tropical climate): I found the same thing happening a few months ago with our tomatoes (Black Russian and Moneymaker). I found out it is Cotton bollworm: a nocturnal moth which lays it's eggs on the flowers, which then hatch and enter the baby tomatoes when they are tiny. I have my tomatoes string-trained on a 'cage' structure made from sticks/branches, so I used a Vege Net from Green Harvest over the entire structure, pegging and tucking the edges in (placing plastic flower pots over the tops of the sticks/branches, to prevent holes in the net). There was a period of finding spots developing, and caterpillars inside the tomatoes for a few weeks after, however no fresh infestations. I'll be doing the same this year right from the start.
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02 Dec 19, Another gardener (Australia - sub-tropical climate): Look up natural sprays for caterpillars and Qld fruit fly on the internet. The holes caused by pillars and black dots are probably qld fruit fly. Chemical for QFF is LEPIDEX.
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17 Nov 19, Allan Clarke (Australia - temperate climate): Hello to all at Gardenate, I see that you say that tomatoes can be frozen, but it is my experience that on thawing they go all soggy, and will not hold there shape, is this correct. Have a great day, Allan.
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17 Dec 19, Barbara (Australia - temperate climate): I wouldn't freeze fresh tomatoes. I do make pasta sauce, freeze it and then use it for all those wonderful winter recipes like lasagna. You could just peel them (by placing them in boiling water for 3 minutes), and cook them for five minutes on the stove, cool them and then freeze them to use later.
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18 Nov 19, Anon (Australia - sub-tropical climate): If frozen I don't think you could use as a fruit to slice etc. I think you could make sauces or similar.
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02 Nov 19, Anna (New Zealand - temperate climate): I'm looking to grow cherry tomatoes close to my sweet Peppers and wondered if they are compatible together? Can't seem to find an answer on the net.
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I am also from the Central Highlands, though this will be my first year trying tomatoes here. A lady with many years of gardening experience recently told me that tomatoes shouldn't be planted out here until Melbourne Cup day (5th November). It's simply too cold before then, especially overnight, and late frosts are still possible in October. For best results you should raise seedlings beside a sunny window or in a greenhouse in late September - early October, to plant out in early November. Or simply buy seedlings from a nursery - this is a much easier option but the number of varieties they sell is limited. I have researched on cold-tolerant varieties for this season and here are three that I am trying this year: Siberian, Stupice, and Swift. You may want to try to look for these varieties as they will probably be better adapted for this climate. Generally, any variety from Northern Europe is probably better to plant than typical Australian varieties, which are bred for hotter climates. Finally, make sure you are feeding them correctly. A high Nitrogen fertiliser is necessary early on, but once it puts on flowers you want to only feed it with one high in Phosphorus and Potassium. There are very few of these fertilisers that seem to be available at the big box stores (many have way too much N) but something like liquid potash or a 'flowers / bloom' labelled fertiliser should work. Make sure to include some organic fertiliser or organic compost when planting out your seeds / seedlings as well, so that your soil is not deficient in trace elements. I hope at least some of this advice helps and that you end up with a bumper crop this year. Tomatoes are probably harder to grow here than elsewhere but I have also been told there are less pest problems than up towards the tropics. Best of luck!

- Prometheus

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Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

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