Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

04 Apr 09, joe (Australia - temperate climate)
hi folks, i heard that removing some leaves from the tomato tree will help produce a better crop! which leaves do we clip off - right at the top ? anyone know?regards and thanx.
18 Mar 09, David (Australia - temperate climate)
Ken. Tomatos ripen with temperature, I notice you are temperate zone so you should still get enough warm days to ripen the tomatos. If the green tomatos are starting to blush at the base then you can pick and ripen on the window sill. Bananas help ripen fruit (bananas release ethelene gas) so bagging tomato with banana may help
18 Mar 09, Ken (Australia - temperate climate)
I have large bushy tomato plants that have some green tomatoes slow to ripen. I am quite keen to re-plant the beds with autumn plantings. Can I expect that these plants will still produce red fruit this late in the season or are they likely to remain green?
12 Mar 09, David (Australia - temperate climate)
Kiah: Bad things happen if you grow Tomatoes in the same place year on year. Better to take them out, compost them, and make a new bed for next season.
11 Mar 09, Kiah (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi was wondering if when tomatoes have finished producing fruit, is it best to leave the plant in the ground for the next season or take it out and start again
20 Feb 09, Gary Zeng (Australia - temperate climate)
when it is very hot, the roots in the pot might burn by high temperature, get the plant out and put into soil. or you can shield you pot from sunshine to cool down the root.
02 Feb 09, Nicole (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Geoff and Domenic, I had perfectly healthy looking tomatoes before the heatwave and now have the same problem, most have developed brown lesions on the base. After googling I think it's blossom end rot caused by water stress from the heat. Can't post a link, but try googling Tomato Problem Solver to see pics.
02 Feb 09, David (Australia - temperate climate)
Geof, could be "blossom end rot" to fix add Calcium Reference Look at ABC gardening videos, December 2008, see Johns Plot Part 1-3 about 8:15 into the video
01 Feb 09, Domenic (Australia - temperate climate)
To Geoff i seen to have the same problem not to sure what it is im living in Melbourne.All my tomato's are gone those 3 days of 40+ degree killed everything it looks like a nuclear bomb has hit them ill love to post the pictures.
26 Jan 09, GEOFF (Australia - temperate climate)
I'm getting a lot of tomatoes with a brown leathery rot on the base. These are suspended and not making contact with anything. Any suggestions ??
Showing 551 - 560 of 602 comments

-- WOW -- I'm not sure HOW MUCH of each amendment (manure, bone meal, blood meal) you put in ... but it sounds like there is enough nutrition there for awhile. I am concerned about 2 things: 1. The initial acidity of the pine mulch. Tomatoes do like slightly acidic soil, but the initial acidity here could be too much. Pine mulch does however break down neutral and pine mulch offers several benefits for gardens, including weed suppression, moisture retention, and improved soil structure. 2. You need to ensure your 5 gallon buckets have a few large holes on the sides near the bottom - this is to prevent your roots from cooking. Even if your containers are in the shade (with the plant in the sun) those containers need aeration. I suggest at least 2 (and up to 6) 3" holes around the bottom sides of your container -- don't worry, after the initial soil spill, the soil will stay put even during watering. As far as continued fertilization, you could top dress with chicken manure -- that is add an inch or two to the top of the soil (top dressing) of chicken manure, and when you water this will go into the soil. Perhaps monthly, maybe more if the plants are growing fast.... I might however hold off for the first couple of months (this really depends on HOW much of each amendment you added -- for example, half a 5 gallon bucket of chicken manure, opposed to several handfuls) -- additionally, when the plants are really small... they don't intake that much nutrition , but as they grow -- they really use up the nutrition fast (think a 5 year old boy compared to a teenager)

- Celeste Archer

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