Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

08 Mar 10, Sim (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Marion, it's due to either too much watering or irregular watering. Tomatoes will split when they absorbed too much water than the skin can expand. Try reducing amount of watering but keep the frequency of watering. Can't do much about the tomatoes already split.
07 Mar 10, Marion (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have planted some yellow pear tomatoes the bush is huge and has plenty of tomates on however they are splitting, can anyone tell me why?
15 Jun 10, Michele -- Tassy (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Hiya Marion ... Had the same problem, pretty much lost the "final" harvest theis year from splitting. When you water do so at soil level therefore watering the roots keeping the fruit and foliage dry. Fruits split when they get wet and are then exposed to the sun. Cheers
04 Mar 10, Steve (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
This year I grew four sorts, Black cherry, marmande, Kotlas and one other I forget. All from the Lost Seed Company. For the first time ever I applied monsterous neglect and I've had my best ever crops. At least 20 kilos so far and still growing strong. Other than an automatic watering over three weeks in December I have done almost nothing. No shoot removal, bad supports, they have sprawled into one huge mess of about 6 square metres which cover the ground so much that weeds have no chance at all. (I haven't weeded since I planted them). I just stick an arm into the pile and pick beautiful toms. I've even left chewed one to drop and rot as it's too hard. I think I've finally discovered the secret to tomato growing.
27 Feb 10, Lyn (Australia - temperate climate)
My tomatoes have been disappointing this year as well . The Black Russian and Cherry's producing hardly any fruit .The pot grown Romas which i let bush out and basically ignored did the best.So maybe a little neglect is the way to go. Marissa if you live in Adelaide there has been a fruit fly outbreak so maybe that's the cause of the maggots. Apparently you need to tell the local council if that's the case .
15 Feb 10, Marissa (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi everyone I have 8 tomatoe plants and experiencing a lot of leaves wilting, fruit rotting at the bottom but the top half is still green plus little black flying insects attacking it and laying eggs in it so when I cut a tomato in half it has maggts inside. Can anyone tell me what to do?
08 Feb 10, Claudia (Australia - temperate climate)
My tomato leaves are yellowing and dying off but I still have plenty of fruit which has been ripening daily. I used the Diggers seeds for the first time and have Tigerella & Tommy Toe Reds. They are in old steel caged plastic water tanks just over 1 meter squared. If anyone has any suggestions I would greatly appreciate it as this is my first time at planting & want to maintain fruiting as long as I can. Thanks
25 May 12, malcolm (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
i have the same trouble i donte know the answer but i have done some reaserch its lack of irion or to cold i have one tomatoe out of 4 plants with all plenty of fruit i have just saulfited iron for grass try that godd luck ps sorry about the spelling
05 Feb 10, Lyndall lightbody (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi lyndall here again still serching for a particular reason my tomato flowers are falling off and not baring any fruit! It's not from too much water and they are very well drained??
03 Feb 10, Homebrewpig (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Well I done the experiment of putting boiling water in the area that the tomatoes where planted then added organic fert. and the results were great. First time I got good tomatoes.
Showing 491 - 500 of 595 comments

The KILL temperature for tomatoes is 2c. If you expect your night time temperatures to be below 4c, I would cover the tomato plant with plastic, and remove the plastic in the morning. The plastic should not be touching the plant. You can cover the plant umbrella style or tent style (fully enclosed like a mini green house). If for some reason you expect to get a really bad cold snap, I would dig the plant up, taking as much soil as possible, you can place the root ball on a piece of plastic (tarp and wrap the root ball), or on burlap, or in a pot, or in a cardboard box... whatever, then move the plant into the shed/garage/on a covered porch close to the house and keep it there until the temps warm up again. The goal when temperatures drop is too keep the morning dew off the plant, and if possible provide warmth by placing it close to the house, or in a enclosed shed.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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