Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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14 Jul 13, Gary (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Sally have a look at magnesium deficiency on you tube also look into epsom salts on youtube. Hope this helps
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17 Feb 13, Charles L (Australia - temperate climate)
Yes, we've had some terribly hot weather here in Perth and a lot of my veggies quit producing....or died....no matter how much water they got. Some are recovering...starting to get cucumbers and tomatoes again - although a few of each didn't make it...half the beans died...the rest showed no signs of recovering, as in blooming, so ripped them out and starting all over....the other veggies look to be on the mend...Once the air temperature hits that blast furnace heat....not much you can do....they survive or they don't
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11 Jan 13, Charles L (Australia - temperate climate)
I usually grow a few varieties of tomatoes over the summer here in Perth (near Joondalup). Getting good results with Bonnie Best, Moneymaker etc. During the winter, the only success I've had so far is with Cherry tomatoes - which I grow on my patio. Out of most of the rain on the north side of the patio - but get several hours of sunshine (if there is any) during the day. The cherry tomatoes are fine for salads but not much else. Does anyone know of a larger tomato that can handle the Perth winter? I can keep them mostly dry...
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23 Jan 13, Elle (Australia - temperate climate)
Charles, I'd recommend Tigerella. I grew one plant in a large container in a sunny position under the patio last winter and was surprised at how well it did.
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13 Jan 13, ray (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Hi, i live in britain,.Our weather is changing as is most countries, try sub arctic plenty. S.A.P. let me know how you get on.
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24 Jan 15, Derek (Australia - temperate climate)
Charles L, Just wondering how the Siberian , variety went and where you got them from ?
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29 Jan 13, Charles L (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanks for the tips! Couldn't find sub arctic here....but found a local supplier for Siberian tomatoes which sounds similar enough, I'll give them a go. Still looking for Tigerella in Perth. Found something called Mr. Stripey which looks identical and will see if they handle the winter too.
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11 May 13, Derek (Australia - temperate climate)
I live in Perth and I grow a variety called Taste Sensation , we still have some in the freezer from the last crop ,which grew through the summer and now in May we have another bumper crop coming along they are a very heavy cropping, early fruiting variety and so much flavor, the fruits are of a medium size, brought them my local nursery as seedlings.
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23 Feb 13, Tracey (Australia - temperate climate)
Tigerella is available from the Diggers Club - they mail order seed and plants (but not sure about tomato plants) all over Oz. You could try Oregon Spring from Rangeview seed (I think it's a better flavour and stronger grower than Tigerella.
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21 Dec 12, Allen Lee (Australia - temperate climate)
Mulching of tomatoes is always a good practice and if you are short on stakes and have palm trees handy cut off one palm leaf strip off leaves use rib as stake replace later if needed. The reason for the chewed tomato underside are snails and during the night have a great feast and by the time you see them they are hidding on a full stomAch of tomatoes. The Slater isn't the problem he's just visitor enjoying the works of the snail and slugs. If the hole is a single small dot could be fruit fly if larger could be white cabbage moth.
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-- WOW -- I'm not sure HOW MUCH of each amendment (manure, bone meal, blood meal) you put in ... but it sounds like there is enough nutrition there for awhile. I am concerned about 2 things: 1. The initial acidity of the pine mulch. Tomatoes do like slightly acidic soil, but the initial acidity here could be too much. Pine mulch does however break down neutral and pine mulch offers several benefits for gardens, including weed suppression, moisture retention, and improved soil structure. 2. You need to ensure your 5 gallon buckets have a few large holes on the sides near the bottom - this is to prevent your roots from cooking. Even if your containers are in the shade (with the plant in the sun) those containers need aeration. I suggest at least 2 (and up to 6) 3" holes around the bottom sides of your container -- don't worry, after the initial soil spill, the soil will stay put even during watering. As far as continued fertilization, you could top dress with chicken manure -- that is add an inch or two to the top of the soil (top dressing) of chicken manure, and when you water this will go into the soil. Perhaps monthly, maybe more if the plants are growing fast.... I might however hold off for the first couple of months (this really depends on HOW much of each amendment you added -- for example, half a 5 gallon bucket of chicken manure, opposed to several handfuls) -- additionally, when the plants are really small... they don't intake that much nutrition , but as they grow -- they really use up the nutrition fast (think a 5 year old boy compared to a teenager)

- Celeste Archer

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