Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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13 Dec 13, Sam (Australia - temperate climate)
I'm growing roma tomatoes. They are a determinate variety. I kept them in pots for a bit too long before transplanting them. They were still relatively small when they went into the garden. Shortly after transplanting the plants flowered. Now I have one or two small fruit setting on each plant. I will be very disappointed if I only get 2 fruit per plant, so I am thinking of cutting these fruit off, and hoping the plants grow bigger before flowering again. Hopefully next time round I get more fruit. Would this work?
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13 Nov 13, Coral (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Our tomatoes have grown tall, but very few flowers . Have you any advice?
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19 Dec 13, Roachelle (Australia - temperate climate)
Im having the same problem... i have very healthy looking plants .. lots of leaves etc... but hardly any flowers... Ive only gotten 1 fruit off so far. what have i done wrong?
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02 Jan 14, Sarah (Australia - temperate climate)
The tomatoes grow little stems in the corners if other stems, they take much of the nutrients to grow and slow the fruit. If they look like they're not going to fruit, just snap them off. My tomato plants popped up out of nowhere in my dad's yard (presumably a birds dinner one night) so we moved them to my house. When he told me about these little stems I wasn't sure, but I have 3 plants, 2 of which I removed these from and they are fruiting much more efficiently than the one I left alone.
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07 Feb 16, Penny (Australia - temperate climate)
Too tall and leafy usually means too much nitrogen (i.e. richness, fertility). See later comments re ash, minerals etc.
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13 Nov 13, alby (Australia - temperate climate)
tomatos growing with plenty of flowers problem yellow black leaves killing them.would love some tips?
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08 Oct 13, Ferah (Australia - tropical climate)
I just wanted to say what a wonderful site this is. As someone who has just discovered the joy of edible gardening (despite many years of my mother trying to convert me!!), it is providing me with the basic and invaluable knowledge to help get me on the right track. I also really enjoy reading the Q&A posts and am picking up a lot of great tips. Thank you xoxo
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28 Sep 13, allen lee (Australia - temperate climate)
In regards to those aphids under the leaves may actually be white fly these tend to scatter when disturbed if so I found that sticky traps yellow in colour work very well they are sold in most hardware and nurseries. Hung around plants with infested bugs you will be amazed how well they work and no need for spray.
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27 Sep 13, allen lee (Australia - temperate climate)
Just a reminder to all those having problems with fruit fly in their tomatoes capsicum etc please ensure if you do find them in your fruit or vegetables pick up the infected fruit destroy by sealing in plastic bag leave in sun to destroy maggots if you don't the grubs will multiply giving you a bigger job next season in ridding of them at extra cost to your pocket ! PS DON'T just throw in the bin seal first ' From little things big thing grow"....
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28 Jul 13, Jo (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi All, I have tried and tried to grow heirloom toms from seed. Brought a heat pad - think I cooked the plants, tried another lot - left them to their own devices, they didn't germinate. But SSSOOOOOO much more annoying was the ones I found in the crack of the path that had germinated...... Help - what am I doing wrong ?. thanks Jo
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-- WOW -- I'm not sure HOW MUCH of each amendment (manure, bone meal, blood meal) you put in ... but it sounds like there is enough nutrition there for awhile. I am concerned about 2 things: 1. The initial acidity of the pine mulch. Tomatoes do like slightly acidic soil, but the initial acidity here could be too much. Pine mulch does however break down neutral and pine mulch offers several benefits for gardens, including weed suppression, moisture retention, and improved soil structure. 2. You need to ensure your 5 gallon buckets have a few large holes on the sides near the bottom - this is to prevent your roots from cooking. Even if your containers are in the shade (with the plant in the sun) those containers need aeration. I suggest at least 2 (and up to 6) 3" holes around the bottom sides of your container -- don't worry, after the initial soil spill, the soil will stay put even during watering. As far as continued fertilization, you could top dress with chicken manure -- that is add an inch or two to the top of the soil (top dressing) of chicken manure, and when you water this will go into the soil. Perhaps monthly, maybe more if the plants are growing fast.... I might however hold off for the first couple of months (this really depends on HOW much of each amendment you added -- for example, half a 5 gallon bucket of chicken manure, opposed to several handfuls) -- additionally, when the plants are really small... they don't intake that much nutrition , but as they grow -- they really use up the nutrition fast (think a 5 year old boy compared to a teenager)

- Celeste Archer

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