Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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15 Jan 20, Mish (Australia - temperate climate)
We have been experiencing very hot, dry days. Up to 42 degrees Celsius. Could this be the reason that my tomato plants died? They were watered regularly & kept in the shade.
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15 Jan 20, Another gardener (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I think it could just be seasonal. My tomatoes were going great (Nov and into Dec picking) and towards the end the whole plant just died off quite quickly. Same conditions as you, hot weather. In a lot of crops you can have early mid and late season varieties.
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07 Jan 20, Bill (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
My butter beans plants are producing lots of beans that are growing and then curling up at the ends. What could be causing this and can i treat it with a fertilizer or a spray? I also have Zucchini that the flower covers all of the end rather then the tip they grow about 3-4 inches and then go yellow and shrivel up?
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09 Jan 20, Anon (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Research on the internet, what causes curly beans. Go the Gardening know how webpage and read. I think the zucchinis are a bit of a mutated seed or whatever. I had a plant like that, big fat end zucchinis with a big flower. Sounds like the female flowers are not being pollinated. Try it by hand.
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01 Dec 19, Tom (Australia - temperate climate)
What is the best fertilizer for tomatoes?
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16 Dec 19, Barbara (Australia - temperate climate)
My tomato bushes are great and promise a bumper crop again this year. As my mother before me, I dig cow manure (from the shop) into the bed six weeks before planting the seedlings. My mother added liquid manure to hers as well.
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03 Dec 19, anon (Australia - temperate climate)
A general all round fertiliser grows most things.
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29 Nov 19, Allan Fraser (Australia - temperate climate)
my tomatoes are being bored into with some sort of caterpillars also some with black spots any ideas on how cure this organiclly or failing that anything to stop it ???
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17 Feb 20, Elizabeth (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I found the same thing happening a few months ago with our tomatoes (Black Russian and Moneymaker). I found out it is Cotton bollworm: a nocturnal moth which lays it's eggs on the flowers, which then hatch and enter the baby tomatoes when they are tiny. I have my tomatoes string-trained on a 'cage' structure made from sticks/branches, so I used a Vege Net from Green Harvest over the entire structure, pegging and tucking the edges in (placing plastic flower pots over the tops of the sticks/branches, to prevent holes in the net). There was a period of finding spots developing, and caterpillars inside the tomatoes for a few weeks after, however no fresh infestations. I'll be doing the same this year right from the start.
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02 Dec 19, Another gardener (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Look up natural sprays for caterpillars and Qld fruit fly on the internet. The holes caused by pillars and black dots are probably qld fruit fly. Chemical for QFF is LEPIDEX.
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Showing 51 - 60 of 595 comments
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I am also from the Central Highlands, though this will be my first year trying tomatoes here. A lady with many years of gardening experience recently told me that tomatoes shouldn't be planted out here until Melbourne Cup day (5th November). It's simply too cold before then, especially overnight, and late frosts are still possible in October. For best results you should raise seedlings beside a sunny window or in a greenhouse in late September - early October, to plant out in early November. Or simply buy seedlings from a nursery - this is a much easier option but the number of varieties they sell is limited. I have researched on cold-tolerant varieties for this season and here are three that I am trying this year: Siberian, Stupice, and Swift. You may want to try to look for these varieties as they will probably be better adapted for this climate. Generally, any variety from Northern Europe is probably better to plant than typical Australian varieties, which are bred for hotter climates. Finally, make sure you are feeding them correctly. A high Nitrogen fertiliser is necessary early on, but once it puts on flowers you want to only feed it with one high in Phosphorus and Potassium. There are very few of these fertilisers that seem to be available at the big box stores (many have way too much N) but something like liquid potash or a 'flowers / bloom' labelled fertiliser should work. Make sure to include some organic fertiliser or organic compost when planting out your seeds / seedlings as well, so that your soil is not deficient in trace elements. I hope at least some of this advice helps and that you end up with a bumper crop this year. Tomatoes are probably harder to grow here than elsewhere but I have also been told there are less pest problems than up towards the tropics. Best of luck!

- Prometheus

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