Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

17 Sep 09, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Re the tip on 13 Aug re "savagely clipping" the tomatoes: When tomato bushes are more or less fully grown, flowering and/or bearing fruit, continually prune the bushes, by about 10 - 20% every week (just enough so the pruning matches the regrowth). Prune from the "inside out" ie remove most of the material from the middle of the bush. This opens it out, lets air circulate, reduces wind damage, discourages pests and diseases, and encourages fruiting. Avoid pruning stems which are flowering - they will produce fruit later. PS I forgot to add to my tip about letting fruit drop and self sow for next season - once the seedlings appear, transplant them. Having tomato crops in the same place each year will attract nematodes. (if you do get nematodes, a solution of molasses and water into the soil will often remove them - the molasses slurps them up).
15 Sep 09, Homebrewpig (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanxs for the reply David. I haven't tried the boiling method yet but was going to try is as a option. Might try the topsy turvy upside down method for a bit of fun!
10 Sep 09, David (Australia - temperate climate)
HBP: I would think pouring boiling water would kill everything GOOD & BAD. There are microorganisms that convert humus into plant food and you have just killed them :( I wonder if this is the problem???
09 Sep 09, Homebrewpig (Australia - temperate climate)
Has anyone heard of pouring boiling hot water in the area that is allocated for tomatoes, wait till it cools then plant your tomatoes to kill dieseases in the soil.? I never have any luck!
05 Sep 09, Kate (Australia - temperate climate)
We have had cherry tomato plant self seed in the garden bed next to our worm farm. It is producing a lot of fruit but quite a lot of the the fruit is ripening when the tomatoes are still tiny (pea sized). Any thoughts on why this might be? I am a novice gardener without the greenest thumb - I should be happy that we're getting any fruit at all! :D
04 Sep 09, David (Australia - temperate climate)
John, can you give more details on the "savage clip" please.
13 Aug 09, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Another tip - split or half eaten tomatoes on the bush - just let them drop. Next year you will automatically have self sown seedlings.
13 Aug 09, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Grown tomatoes for years. Last summer pruned / clipped quite savagely. Results amazing. 5 times the fruit and the more I trimmed the more fruit I got.
09 Aug 09, margaret (Australia - temperate climate)
I live in the Dandenong ranges, victoria, I am inspired to raise seedlings of tomato rather than plant out seedlings from the nursery. It is August now, so, is this the time to plant the seeds for transplanting to garden in late September early October?
08 Aug 09, Alison (Australia - temperate climate)
I'm ready to start my first vegie patch with beetroot, lettuce, carrots and tomatoes (applying companion gardening). Can anyone suggest a really good tomato? These so many varieties all boosting to be the best. Thanks!
Showing 741 - 750 of 821 comments

I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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