Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

15 Mar 10, Barb (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi Ian, Sounds like it could have been tomato russet mite, exacerbated by hot dry weather. Spraying the leaves lightly with a foliar feed of a very weak seaweed mixture every week or two should also help. Feeding the plant with decent (home made) compost, worm wee or seaweed/fish emulsion, etc should also strengthen the plants against attack. Glad you ended up with a good harvest!
14 Mar 10, Ian (Australia - temperate climate)
I have been growing tomatoes in pots at North Sydney for the last 10 years. Each year is more problematic and depressing than the previous even though I sterilise pots and use new potting mix each year. Plants start off very healthy then about the time that fruit set, the plants start yellowing from the bottom and within a few weeks they are history. This year was interesting in that I placed the pots on a second story balcony well away from previous plantings on the assumption that whatever was killing the plants near the ground may not exist on the balcony. I planted in September, great plants until mid November when they did the same thing - started yellowing from the bottom up and ended up basically dead after a few weeks. I took one of the plants (Mighty Red) which was dead except for one small leaf about 10mm above ground level. I cut the plant off completely immediately above this leaf and planted it in a new garden bed we have recently created in the area where we had previously used pots. For a couple of weeks nothing happened then the plant started growing and now in mid March we have just picked 3 large tomatoes off a very healthy (large) plant with another 15 or so tomatoes still on the plant. I still don't know what causes the problem but the experiment with this 'Lazarus' plant is nothing if not interesting.
17 Mar 19, Gerrard Kavanagh (Australia - temperate climate)
Have harvested lots of good tomatoes including green ones yesterday. Most plants dried and look like they are dying back. However some appear to have started some healthy looking new growth. Do I pull them all out and get ready for peas or other nitrogen rich crop or see what happens with the new growth?
20 Jan 19, Nick (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Is it too late to plant tomatoes in late January in sydney
06 Mar 15, (Australia - temperate climate)
Yellowing leaves mean it is underfed which happens easier in pots. Feed with lots of compost and dynamic lifter. Use liquid fertiliser as well. A quick acting and compost and dynamic lifter will keep the plants going longer term
25 Sep 14, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Do the smoke-tobacco carries a fungus disease .
16 Aug 14, Matt (Australia - temperate climate)
Its to hot and humid in Sydney to grow tomatoes well in Dec /Jan Get your plants going early inside and grow from Aug to Nov then have a break then start again in Feb when temps just drop a little .Cherry tomatoes will do much better .All tomatoes don't like being moved so try and seed them where they will stay and don't water the foliage and smokers shouldn't touch the leaves or the plants at all they hate it.And the ones you neglect and that come up by themselves will always do better than the ones you put your heart into. They also need calcium (egg shells).Dont touch them!
08 Aug 14, Don (Australia - temperate climate)
I live on the lower north shore in sydney and every year I plant my tomatoes and they start to flower in abundance as there a no bees here I go around with a small paint brush and try and pollinate them going from flower to flower but being as careful as I can doing this exercise ,I disturb them and they fall off and only a few make it to a tomato stage where am I going wrong a frustrated tomato grower.
23 Jul 14, Sagala (Australia - temperate climate)
Watch out for bugs and pests as they can leave little holes in the tomatoes so be careful when picking
12 Aug 11, Coogee (Australia - temperate climate)
To be honest, our water supply is polluted with high concentrations of fluoride. also, persistent con trails being sprayed over the city and coast are detrimental to the the health of the plants. Try using filtered water and keeping them out of the rain.
Showing 681 - 690 of 806 comments

You can look up the germination (seed hatching) temperature for various vegetables online. Compare this temperature to your soil temperature (even your air temperature to get an idea) -- the germination temperature needs to be met and sustained for the seeds to germinate (in addition to water, soil and presence of light for some shallow planted seeds). Most likely you will still benefit from starting indoors -- it all depends on temperatures AND which veggies you are planting - some veggies seeds have fairly low germination temps - beans, chard, mustard etc. Other veggies have very high germination temps: tomatoes, peppers etc. Remember that the germination temp needs to not only be met, it needs to be sustained. Since you can control your inside temperature - I would start my seeds indoors -- and potentially add a heating pad under the seedling tray. If you plant outdoors you can use a tarp to help warm the soil; I prefer clear elevated about 6" above the ground (like a green house) to help warm the soil when the sun hits it
- Celeste Archer

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