Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
              S S S S S
T T               T T T
P                 P P P

(Best months for growing Tomato in Australia - sub-tropical regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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04 Apr 11, Sarah (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
April has started now and I"ve just picked one ripe fruit. Am I waiting for nothing? Will they ever ripen. I've got 100's of green tomatoes. I also noticed one of my plants is still flowering.
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13 Feb 11, (Australia - temperate climate)
my tomatos ripened very slowly too, but they eventually got there. I only just started harvesting them a week ago. I have not had problems with birds.
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03 Feb 11, Sam (Australia - temperate climate)
I had the same issue issue last year and a friend suggested hanging yellow and red christmas baubles on the vines before it starts fruiting. Birds will go for these first without success and, hopefully, leave your ripening tomatos alone. That's my plan for this year, anyway.
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04 Feb 11, Chris (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I'll try that on my plum trees next year!
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14 Jan 11, kate (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I am no expert, but I read somewhere that you can put banana skin under the mulch or in the soil and the potassium helps with flower production. I tried this and also made a tea of banana skins which I apply (diluted) weekly. It seems to work! There are lots of flowers and fruit even though we have had a very slow start to summer here.
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08 Jan 11, Lou (Australia - temperate climate)
Someone told me they know of a tomato plant that's been growing fruit for 10 years.......
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08 Jan 11, dino (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi my tomatoes are growing OK , but are not showing any sign on flowers, I have had them in for weeks now.
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06 Jan 11, (Australia - temperate climate)
Mine are the same! I grow Sweet Bites and Tomatoberries in large pots, but they end up dying from the bottom up with leaves on the new growth. My soil is rich and I regularly use worm castings/juice and potash-rich fertilizer. Kellie, Sydney
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04 Jan 11, (Australia - temperate climate)
My tomato plants always die from the bottom up. The leaves yellow then brown then drop off. Plants develop well, and I keep it in check by removing diseased leaves, but by the time tomatoes are ripening the plant starts to die. If I don't pull the plant while mist fruit are green the fruit go bad. Does anyone know what thus is? How can I stop it? Sarah, Perth, temperate
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05 Jan 11, Adrian Castellari (Australia - temperate climate)
Hello Sarah. I'm no expert, but, how is your soil. If it is nice and rich, you shouldn't have any problems. Maybe you need to replace the soil, then build it up with compost etc. My plants were like that, so I replaced everything for this growing season. My 16 tomato plants are now well over 6ft. tall and 'loaded'.
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Showing 641 - 650 of 811 comments
See comments for all plants

Your Blossom end rot could be caused by the small pot. Try a 30L minimum for a tomato of up to 1m, and 50L+ tubs for anything taller. The problem in Northern NZ (Auckland upwards) in the intense heat, humidity, and constant winds on clear days that dry the soil. The soil seesaws from dry to wet, with us trying to compensate the loss three times a day, in small pots. You'll get excellent plants, but blossom end rot, and no useful fruit. I buy seeds from Southern suppliers who have clearly defined seasons in their districts. Here in West Auckland, the sun mid-spring onward is almost too strong for tomatoes (as noted in the comment from The Shore above), and the humidity is oppressive. They are part shade plants here, and 30L is absolute minimum for varieties that suppliers claim can be grown in 18L, or less. This year I'm using no less than 54L each plant, plus grass clipping mulch. So far so good. It's the only way to maintain soil a consistent moisture.

- Lee

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