Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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19 Mar 11, THOMAS (Australia - temperate climate)
Forget the Triffids. Cherry tomatoes will engulf the world. Not one corner of my 3 acres has escaped being colonised this year & I only had them in my vegetable patch last year. Harvesting bucket loads & making sauce but have to beat the field mice to them. Thomas
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17 Mar 11, Elisha (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have planted some tomato plants about 3 weeks ago in a supposed to be organic soil I got trucked in. Which as mill mud a sugar cane by product, and other goodies in it. I mixed dolomite, dynmatic lifter in the soil then planted. I am using sugar cane mulch and have liquid fertislied them with seasol and healthy earth. My tomatoes have now started to wilt. I don't believe its a fungus or a disease as when I cut the stems it looks healthy and green. I had 10 plants and now only have around 4 standing strong. Any suggestions what is going on? Oh I did fertilise them just before wilting as we have had a heap of rain recently with potash and blood and bone. Have I maybe over feed them. I didn't think that was possible.
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17 Mar 11, Liz (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
Elisha, your seedlings might have 'damping off' disease. This is caused by too much water staying round the roots allowing a fungus to grow on the roots. If the plants don't improve in a day or so, it would be best to remove them and start again. Make sure that your soil is well drained.
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22 Aug 11, Deborah (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Damping off can be avoided by spraying seedlings every few days with chamomile tea, which kills the fungus which causes the damage. Also move mulch back a bit from the stem of the seedling to improve ventilation.
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04 Mar 11, KEVIN HERON (Australia - temperate climate)
HI COL, YOU HAVE HAD A LOT OF RAIN? DO YOU FERTILIZE / WHAT TYPE OF TOMATO ARE YOU GROWING REGARDS KEV
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01 Mar 11, Col (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
In my current crop of tomatoes which are about 8 weeks old and 400mm high, three of the fifteen have wilted badly and are not recovering after thhee days. They are under 50% shade cloth due to the cureent hot weather and are watered at ground level every 36 hours. I have planted at the other end of the garden from last year, about 2.4 metres away. Any suggestions please! Col
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17 Nov 11, Deborah (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I agree, not enough water. Early morning and late afternoon.
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16 Mar 11, jade (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
mine are going great, not under any shade, in bris. But get watered at least twice a day and also any time it rains - So much rain, but with good drainage I don't think it can be overdone.
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26 Feb 11, Karl (Australia - temperate climate)
Banana tea...why didn't I think of that? Thanks for the tip!
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16 Feb 11, emma (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I have planted bushy type (non staking) tomatoes on a high hot balcony. They grew nicely and produced flowers, then fruit which have grown to about small apple size. They seemed to be taking a long time to ripen; then as each one has changed colour, a flattened, smooth & rippled bottom has developed on the fruit which is olive green in colour. The fruit inside looks ok; still a bit green; but I'm not sure whether we should eat them. What do you think?
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You can look up the germination (seed hatching) temperature for various vegetables online. Compare this temperature to your soil temperature (even your air temperature to get an idea) -- the germination temperature needs to be met and sustained for the seeds to germinate (in addition to water, soil and presence of light for some shallow planted seeds). Most likely you will still benefit from starting indoors -- it all depends on temperatures AND which veggies you are planting - some veggies seeds have fairly low germination temps - beans, chard, mustard etc. Other veggies have very high germination temps: tomatoes, peppers etc. Remember that the germination temp needs to not only be met, it needs to be sustained. Since you can control your inside temperature - I would start my seeds indoors -- and potentially add a heating pad under the seedling tray. If you plant outdoors you can use a tarp to help warm the soil; I prefer clear elevated about 6" above the ground (like a green house) to help warm the soil when the sun hits it
- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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