Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
S S S S S S S          
  T T T T T T T        

(Best months for growing Tomato in South Africa - Humid sub-tropical regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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17 Mar 22, Kylee (USA - Zone 5b climate)
my understanding is that keeping the leaves wet may make the plant more susceptible to disease and fungal issues, so its probably best to only water the base of the plant. Just make sure to give your tomatoes some shade throughout the day and i think they'll be alright
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01 Mar 22, Gary Hall (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Did anyone else have problems with tomatoes this year I had to convert back to my tiny Toms ( skin too tough for those pesky pests next year I going back to Nicotine spray that'll knock them around a bit) .
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07 Aug 22, Tom (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
My summer toms had a lot of rust but I kept cutting out the infected foliage and the rest of the plant produced just fine. The vines didn't look great but I had bumper crops of large, delicious tomatoes. Also a long season the seed came up in early spring and they produced for 6 months.
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10 Mar 22, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have a problem with wilt at the moment - never had it before. Very annoying.
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04 Mar 22, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I don't have much problems with cherry tomatoes - other varieties the pest generally get to them and yellow leaf curl virus. I'm going to try double layer of bird netting I bought cheap.
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20 Feb 22, Debbie (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
Hi I live in Central Otago and have a variety ot tomato plants that have flowers but no fruit. Am I wasting my time, will they produce fruit & ripen?
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31 Mar 22, Wendy (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
I find the shorter growing tomatoes like early girl do much better - anything longer than 8 weeks seems to only just have fruit at the end of the season and then no time to ripen
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22 Feb 22, Anonymous (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
It says plant spring/summer, give them time to grow.
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03 Feb 22, Steven Winner (USA - Zone 9b climate)
What are the best Beef Stake Tomatoes that grow well in Zone 9b?
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24 Feb 22, Cynthia M. (USA - Zone 9b climate)
I live in The IE, zone 9B, and Kelloggs Breakfast tomatoes do really well for me here. All of the warm season veggies I grow in full sun, I put up sun clothe over the top of the beds, once it starts staying in the 90's F.
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Showing 51 - 60 of 798 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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