Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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21 Apr 15, Alan c (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi .Roma normally put out a lot of laterals. If they are all left on the vine not much will ripen quickly as the plant makes more trusses. To ripen I pinch most if not all of the new laterals off , the plant put energy into ripening the green tomatoes . A week or so later new laterals appear with more flowers etc. I do this with all indeterminate plants to make them ripen when I want them to .
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08 Apr 15, naymi (Australia - temperate climate)
I live in Sydney and currently have a thriving tomato plant still producing tomatoes. With the temperatures dropping, I want to know what to do with the plant. Do I just let it slowly die? Will it actually die in winter temps in Sydney? (not sure if we get actual 'frost') Thanks :)
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10 Apr 15, Mikaela (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Naymi, If your plants still have little green tomatoes, you can dig up the whole plant (including the root) and hang it upside down in a dry covered area. Some (not all, unfortunately) of the green tomatoes will still ripen over a few weeks. Here's a vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtN9Ud17tjM (watch out for rot as the rains have picked up.) Also, tomatoes deplete nitrogen, so I like to plant a pea/bean over winter to recharge the soil. I just plop a bean seed in when I dig up my tomato plant. In contrast, let the nitro-fixer stay in place and till the dying plant into the soil so it can get all the benefits as it composts in place.
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29 Mar 15, Neil (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi, I have established my first veggie garden and have just won the war with caterpillars attacking my tomatoe plants by spaying them with tablespoon molasses and a teaspoon of dish liquid mixed with a litre of water and spayed on. However I am writing to ask about whether tomatoes need to planted fresh each year or can a tomatoes bush flower and fruit year after year. Any thoughts would be very appreciated. Many thanks.
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30 Mar 15, tomato expert qld (Australia - tropical climate)
tomato bushes will produce for approx 3 to 4 months.save your seeds for replants.
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23 Mar 15, Edie (USA - Zone 7b climate)
What is the best tomato plant and also bush tomato plant for my Zone 7b?
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16 Feb 16, Carrie B. (USA - Zone 7b climate)
There is a seed supplier specializing in heirloom in our zone. Southern Exposure Seed Exchange. Even if you don't buy seed the website and catalog are great resources.
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17 Mar 15, wozza (Australia - tropical climate)
I live near Cairns and my Tomatoes have lots flowers n no fruit .I even got my self a bee hive so I have bees .BUT STILL no fruit .Lots flowers but no Fruit .Is it still to hot ?????.Temp around 32 too 34 through the day n lots Humitity.Cheers
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30 Mar 15, tomato expert qld (Australia - tropical climate)
European bees (if thats what you have in your hive) wont visit tomato flowers.the only bes i know that do are the blue banded native bees which are approx the same size as euro bees.blue banded bees are solitary bees.also a few native stingless bees will visit tomato flower but they are fussy and will only visit high pollen producing tomatoes plant strains. again,tomato plants are self pollinators and dont require bees etc for the pollination of flowers..
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27 Mar 15, tomato expert qld (Australia - tropical climate)
bees are not needed for pollination as tomatoes are self pollinating.your problem is the temps are too high.wait till the end of April as i do every year and you will have fruits in no time.im in cairns.
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Showing 451 - 460 of 811 comments
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I live on the North Shore, Auckland and have done container growing for several years now, This is the third year of growing tomatoes on a large scale - predominantly determinate varieties. I source my seeds from Kings Seeds who supply a determinate variety called Sub Arctic Plenty which I have experimented with variable results. All plants raised indoors, gently hardened off then potted out into 15L tubs. I use 50/50 new compost/previously used container soil from a non-tomato pot mixed well with added slow release fertiliser and half a cup of powdered eggshell.. The top is mulched with straw and 4 marigolds to attract the bees. They also need a 5ft stake. Generally the plants like the morning and late sun and need shade from the glaring hot midday temperatures. Each year I am growing them earlier to avoid the heat of summer. The pots on the decking facing North fully exposed struggled, the pots that were shaded midday grew much better. Next year I plan to plant out in July/August and see how they get on then. They have a mild taste, personally I prefer the richer flavours of the dark toms but they are good for dehydrating. I also found that they prefer dryer soil than some of my other varieties. I liquid feed them once a week using a litre of water. Don't let them stand in trays, they need full drainage. Any run off from the trays I use on something else (the pineapple sage is very grateful). Spay every part of the plant with a brew of bicarsoda to pre-empt and control powdery mildew weekly. Please let me know if you want any other info - happy to share. Let me know how you get on.

- Karen

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