Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
      T T T            
      P P              

(Best months for growing Tomato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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16 Jan 17, John (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
There are many viruses that can affect tomatoes. 'Wilt' viruses can be identified by cutting one of the main stems on a long diagonal cut. If there are brown lines in the 'veins' it is an indicator of wilt virus. The other important consideration in tomato growing (including potatoes, capsicums, egg plant,) is not to plant them in in the same location for 3 years to reduce the risk of soil born diseases. Trust this helps.
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09 Jan 17, Joanne2167 (Australia - temperate climate)
Yes, mine are crimping too. They are also not producing much fruit and not very bushy at all. I am not very good at this and don't know what the problem is but these are the worst I have had.
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07 Jan 17, Bill (Australia - temperate climate)
I have a few Tomato plants one is 1.5 Mtr but top half of tomatoes are flowering facing upwards is this a problem. Thanks
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27 Dec 16, Tom (Australia - temperate climate)
Some of my tomato plants have curly leaves. What can I do?
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30 Dec 16, Phil (Australia - temperate climate)
You dont say much about your particular situaion, and I'm no expert. I had a similar issue with a potted Patio Prize but it was before I had whitefly/thrip. While I was watering it was hitting the leaves, and I think I overused tomato dust. The leaves not only curled, but they also went thick and felt waxy. Plant growth stunted and the small amount of fruit were really acidic tasting too (symptom of inefficient leaves). You should be able to rescue this plant by mulching and only watering the ground under the plant. Trim the worst couple of leaves/branches off every 5-7 days, continue as new growth takes hold. Google an appropriate fertiliser, i cant comment on that yet. New growth should take, but of course they then become a rich target for pests, enter my white fly problem as well. Gentle spray with confidor and rehash the sticky paper similar to the previous post. I'm not skilled enough to go chemical free yet.
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28 Dec 16, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Sorry to hear about your tomato leaves curling. This can sometimes occur with variable weather, hot, cold, windy, but is more likely to be a virus transmitted by whitefly. Tose pesky little insects that swarm on beans, tomatoes,etc. They lift off when disturbed and then land again fairly quickly. They can be controlled by smearing vaseline on yellow cardboard or plastic; they like the bright colour. Check your state department of agriculture website, they have more information. Sorry I haven't been a lot of help.
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11 Dec 16, Ayanda (South Africa - Humid sub-tropical climate)
Which season is right to plan tomatoes in the Eastern Cape,Centane.
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24 Dec 16, John (Australia - temperate climate)
I am not familiar with the climatic zones of South Africa but imagine it would be similar to Australia. In frost-free areas tomatoes can be grown all year round. Otherwise plant them after the last frost in Spring. They are easily grown from seed and also strike readily from cuttings of side shoots placed in a small jar of water. They will sprout roots fairly quickly and then can be planted out like seedlings. protect from dryness and heat until they are established. Trust this helps.
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30 Nov 16, Tia (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
We have a plague of small flying insects attacking tomato and tomato plants, capsicum etc. They pierce fruit multiple times all over, stunting maturity of produce. I've not seen them before. Of a night they cluster on my white picket fence, they are attracted to white. What are they? How do I control them naturally?
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30 Nov 16, John (Australia - temperate climate)
If they are piercing the fruit they are sucking pests (bugs) so natural sprays such as Yates 'Natures Way' won't help. This spray works for chewing pests. If they like white and are clustering on the picket fence at night try 'greasing' the fence with petroleum jelly (vaseline). if they are not too large they will stick to it. You could also fix some white plastic, ice cream containers or lids to a stake and grease that instead. Trust this helps.
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You can look up the germination (seed hatching) temperature for various vegetables online. Compare this temperature to your soil temperature (even your air temperature to get an idea) -- the germination temperature needs to be met and sustained for the seeds to germinate (in addition to water, soil and presence of light for some shallow planted seeds). Most likely you will still benefit from starting indoors -- it all depends on temperatures AND which veggies you are planting - some veggies seeds have fairly low germination temps - beans, chard, mustard etc. Other veggies have very high germination temps: tomatoes, peppers etc. Remember that the germination temp needs to not only be met, it needs to be sustained. Since you can control your inside temperature - I would start my seeds indoors -- and potentially add a heating pad under the seedling tray. If you plant outdoors you can use a tarp to help warm the soil; I prefer clear elevated about 6" above the ground (like a green house) to help warm the soil when the sun hits it
- Celeste Archer

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