Growing Strawberry Plants

Fragaria : Rosaceae / the rose family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
        P P            

(Best months for growing Strawberry Plants in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • P = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Easy to grow. Plant with crown (of roots) just covered.. Best planted at soil temperatures between 50°F and 68°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 12 - 39 inches apart
  • Harvest in approximately 11 weeks. Strawberries bruise easily when ripe, handle carefully. Pick with a small piece of stem attached..
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Better in a bed on their own to allow good sun and air circulation
  • Avoid growing close to: If you are using rotation beds, avoid putting strawberries where you have grown tomatoes, potatoes, peppers or eggplant

Your comments and tips

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17 Aug 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Go to Veggies and Herbs at the top of the page and read about growing them. Strawberries seeds or strawberries plants. Seeds sound like a lot of work. Put seeds in a fridge for 3-4 weeks. It says can take 2-8 weeks to germinate. 12 mths to grow. Much easier to use plants. Not many flowers the first year by the sounds of it. Maybe enough sun but watering and fertilizing is important. Too much N and all leaf. Needs a bit of K for fruiting.
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21 Aug 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Watched a video today and it said strawberries can take up to 2 yrs to produce fruit from planting seeds. She recommended buying fresh root stock. Make sure there is some green growth on them.
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25 Jul 17, john (Australia - temperate climate)
I have just planted strawberries in a tub facing north , but where should i have them please .
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26 Jul 17, John (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Your location is fine. If it is against a wall that will get hot in the summer you may need to move them to a north-easterly or easterly aspect
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26 Jul 17, Mike (Australia - temperate climate)
The best place is to give them sun all or most of the day - is the important thing.
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16 Jun 17, Jean (Australia - temperate climate)
As far as I know, you are meant to cut off all the flowers as soon as they appear for the first year. The plant needs more energy to establish roots, etc. then the next year, you can let them flower and fruit and you should have a more abundant crop.
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21 Jun 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Commercial growers here plant the strawberry runners in late April May. After the crop has been picked they plough them in. A one year crop. They buy new runners each year under contract - special patented varieties. Generally a home gardener may leave a few plants at the end of the season to keep over for the following year. During the late summer these will start to develop runners - you use these for the next crop. Doing this for years will produce an inferior fruit over years I believe.
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19 Apr 17, Heidi (Australia - temperate climate)
I see from this article that I have done everything incorrectly! As strawberry plants were available at the nursery during the summer, I purchased a punnet and put them in. They all produced heaps of runners, a few flowers and a strawberry or two, which the bugs promptly demolished. I'd like to keep persevering, but need the space in my raised bed for other veg. Is it ok therefore to transplant the strawberry plants into pits for the winter, or are they unlikely to survive? Thanks for any help you can provide.
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05 Sep 17, (Australia - temperate climate)
you should cut your runners on your new plant to encourage your strawberries to grow on the main plant, if you cut all the runners off it should produce heaps of fruit, once they start to grow then you can encourage runners
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20 Apr 17, shane (Australia - temperate climate)
I grow Borage and Passionfruit among my strawberries with great success. Both are useful in the kitchen and 'companion plant' with my strawberries, saving me time and work in the garden too. The Borage prefers a shadier spot than the others, and suffers a little in summer, but copes ell enough.
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Your title says strawberries - your question is regarding peaches. You seem to have two issues. The first chilling hours -- which the net (FTN) defines as: Chilling hours are the minimum number of hours that a peach tree needs to get, specifically, nighttime temperatures between 32 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit, in order to produce a good crop of peaches.. If the hours are not met (say in a warm winter), the blossoms mostly just fall off the trees and do not set fruit. Additionally you mentioned humidity which for peaches is leaf curl: (FTN) Peach leaf curl is a fungal disease of peach and nectarine. It is favoured by prolonged wet, cool weather in the spring as new growth is developing. Infected leaves become thick and curled with red and yellow discolouration. Infected leaves eventually drop. Again FTN Peaches with the fewest chill hour requirements are all yellow freestones. Cultivars needing 100 chill hours or less, the lowest requirement, include Gulf Queen (Prunus persica “Gulf Queen"), Mid Pride (Prunus persica “Mid Pride”), Bonita (Prunus persica “Bonita”) and Ventura (Prunus persica “Ventura”). Also Eva's Pride. additionally: With one exception, white peaches with low chill requirements are all freestones. At 200 chill hours, Tropic Snow (Prunus persica “Tropic Snow") has the lowest requirement. If you think a nectarine might work then: Desert Delight is a good choice --- but it seems to me that you might want to think about persimmons.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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