Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      P P              

(Best months for growing Potato in Australia - tropical regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 10°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 30 - 40 cm apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

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02 Dec 09, Graeme (Australia - temperate climate)
Mary, I'm growing potatoes for the first time this year and the heat knocked mine around as well. However, with plenty of watering and the cool change we've had this week, they have come back.
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26 Nov 09, adam synnott (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Teashy, potatoes often resprout after a shock like that, have faith, and they could be okay. In my climate, they often get frosted off completely, but then come back from the dead. Mary, potatoes have a really hard time in the tropics/sub tropics. I think there will be some years when there is just too much against them. This year seems to be a bit hotter than normal, so maybe they have a few too many bugs this year, combined with the unusual heat, it could just be a year to concentrate on other crops. If you plant them in the shade, they will do a lot better. It isn't too late to plant some fresh ones, and don't put them in direct sunlight. They are quite tenacious, and will grow in quite low light. The reason they didn't develop more taters is, as you rightly point out, that they just didn't have the time to grow to their full potential.
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26 Nov 09, Mary (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
My potatoes were eaten by the big ladybirds and grasshoppers. The recent heat finished them off. I dug up some today and there was a small number of developed potatoes but not as many as there should be. Is this because they did not get to flower? I grew them in old plastic garbage bins and filled them with mulch as they grew. There was no potatoes until I dug down to the dirt so what is the point of "hilling" them?
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22 Nov 09, Teashy B (Australia - temperate climate)
I have had my potatoes in for maybe 6 weeks or a little bit more, due to the extremem heat we have been having the leaves have died very quickly and all I can see is the dirt underneath. Do I just leave them in and hope for the best or do I pull them up? Any comments or hints would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks
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21 Nov 09, emma (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I am growing potatoes in inner melbourne, in a tiny back yard plot. I planted farm potatoes from ballarat and they sprouted quickly and grew about four very healthy looking plants. I decided to stake them or at least support them and they grew to about 1.2m. I rarely remembered to build up the soil around the stalks. Now green caterpillars are decimating the plants and they are looking terrible. They haven't flowered. Should I leave them in or forget this crop and try again next year?
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19 Nov 09, Gwynneth Grogan (Australia - temperate climate)
Some of my potatoes have curly leaves and the actual potatoe is split, would this be the heat.
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09 Nov 09, pete (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
i grew potatoes this year. kipfer sebago and pontiac. i put heaps of compost into the garden and all my potatoes went really spindly and leggy they had plenty of sunlight and all the potatoes that i harvested were quite small, have i put too much compost/manures in my garden beds? everything else seems to be doing fine...
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08 Nov 09, cons (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Do the tubers grow along the stem or on the roots? A friend says hilling the plants is so that more tubers grow - is this right? How do I know when to lift them? Is it when thee flowers die down?
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09 Jul 10, Tassy Michele (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Hiya Cons, The reason you hill-up potatoes is to cover any potatoes that are close to the surface, as these potaoes when exposed to the sun will go green. Green potatoes are inedible as they are poisonous. Cheers
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07 Nov 09, Aaron (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Hi Ryan, A quick Google search returned this: Potatoes are ready for harvesting when the majority of the tops have withered. Early potatoes may be dug for table use at any time but for storage the potatoes should be fully mature. And Adrienne, Seed potatoes should be kept in a bright, warm position when trying to get them to shoot. Keeping potatoes cool and dark will keep them from shooting.
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Technically you don't HAVE TO HILL any variety of potatoes. Here's how it works: you plant the seed potato (which is an extra small potato saved/stored from last year's harvest -- or a piece of a larger potato that you stored/saved from last year) -- the DEPTH THAT you PLANT that SEED POTATO determines your LOWEST POINT -- GENERALLY, and I do mean GENERALLY (like 95% of the potatoes) the potato plant will not create tubers LOWER than the depth you planted the seed potato at (so your seed potato is the BOTTOM of the plants tubers/potatoes). Which is why some people think the very bottom potato always rots, when in reality it is the seed potato and is expected to grow and will appear rotten. Which means if you don't hill up as your potato plant grows and you planted the seed potato shallow, there is not that much ROOM for the potato plant to put it's tubers, and larger tubers will usually "pop" out of the soil and turn green due to sun exposure. If you don't want to hill up, plant your seed potato deeper than recommended -- yes it will be fine -- the reason you plant shallow and mound up is because the potato plant will be able to get leaves into the sun sooner if it's seed potato was planted shallow, which means it will grow quicker because it is collecting light sooner -- then you mound up to offset that you planted the seed potato shallow, but you always leave lots of leaves exposed to the sun so the plant can collect sun and grow. It's a lot of extra work work to mound up soil-- and maybe speeds up the process "brings in the harvest" by 10 days or so.... My experience is planting seed potatoes a foot deep ((30cm) is fine -- yes the plant takes a little longer for it's leaves to surface -- but it's fine and you should not experience any problems - provided the soil is nice and loose. (hopefully that makes senses). I think in the future I will plant two potatoes side by side -- one deep, one using the mound method and record the progress and final outcomes... I have never done a tandem planting -- BUT I HAVE had potatoes spring up from deep down Once as I dug out one of these "self planted potatoes" I realized it was down about 30" (70cm) -- it was in a potato planting tower (old full size garbage can full of 3" holes all over) which I dumped and collect the potatoes from the year before, then just put the soil back, week by week, as I composted kitchen scraps directly into the soil... so no surprise that a potato was so deep -- it grew -- it put out potatoes and it's crop was average good... it spent a lot of energy growing up -- and perhaps I harvested too early based on the other potatoes-- but it made it and did OK, good size potatoes, good quantity. I would not recommend placing your seed potatoes that deep, but a foot (30cm) should be fine.

- Celeste Archer

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