Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
        P P P P P      

(Best months for growing Potato in Australia - sub-tropical regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 10°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 30 - 40 cm apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

04 Jan 10, Leanne (Australia - temperate climate)
Very happy with my first potato harvest. The plant just sprouted from our compost when it was mulched into the garden bed. One of the potato's already has an eye growing - I am going to replant this now and hope for the best.
03 Jan 10, Chris (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Matthew, if you're in a cool/mountain region it's probably a bit late to start potatoes now. We started ours after the frosts stopped (Melbourne cup day, around here). You're best off buying seed potato from a garden shop to avoid problems with potato virus - when they start stocking them is generally the best time to plant them for your area. Seed potato is an ordinary potato grown under controlled conditions - you let it spout and plant it, or cut it in two and let those sprout to get two plants started. Potatoes are all grown as clones by sprouting from a potato tuber. If you try seed (from the berries), you will probably end up with something inedible as they are quite variable.
03 Jan 10, Janet (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanks Chris. It's got very hot here and all the plants have died down so I've been "bandicooting"! around and had some good feeds so far. I now trying to decide whether to dig all up and store, or leave some in the ground for a while - any thoughts? Also, if leaving in do I continue to water?
02 Jan 10, Barb (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Matthew, you are best to buy 'seed potato' from a nursery or an online seed provider - that way they are certified free of disease. These are potatoes with sprouts, and they usually come with instructions.
03 Aug 13, Baz (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi does anyone know where I can but Kestrel seed potatoes from
02 Jan 10, courtney (Australia - temperate climate)
Matthew, you can go to a nursery and buy potatoes that are called seed potatoes but they still look like potatoes, they are just a healthier version of what you get in the super market. they will grow a plant no matter which one you use just sprout them or use ones that already sprouted in your cupboard like the instructions above suggest.
01 Jan 10, Matthew (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I am about to start potatoes for the first time. I know this may sound stupid but do I use a patato that sprouts to plant or can I get seeds?? Just starting this vegie thing now.
30 Dec 09, gwen kerr (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
when do you know when to harvest potatoes
29 Dec 09, Chris (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Janet, those fruit on the potatoes are potato berries - they are poisonous and should just be left. You shouldn't need to stake the plants, but you might have fed them a bit much nitrogen if they are growing tons of leaf. You've probably got new potatoes you can harvest now if you feel around ('bandicoot') under the plants, otherwise just leave until the plants die off to harvest full-sized potatoes.
14 Dec 09, Janet (Australia - temperate climate)
I've not had much success with potatoes in the past. My present crop seems to be OK but should I stake the plants as they are falling all over the place even though I've been adding more soil and straw. Also little bunches of green"fruit" have appeared on some plants. Anyone know what these are?
Showing 461 - 470 of 561 comments

It depends -- not all potatoes are suitable for towering (layering). Additionally, I have found that the potato plant SPENDS A LOT OF ENERGY GROWING UP, UP, UP, as you cover its leaves with soil (leaves have specialized cells designed to collect light - and why you would want to cover them with soil is beyond me this is not really a good move -- leaves are not roots). My recommendation is: if you have a DEEP PLANTER bag starting at about six inches from the bottom -- in sort of a pattern that looks like the 5 on a die (dice) -- make about 3-4 inch round holes -- and make them on the sides that receive light keeping the holes about 10 inches apart (6 inches away from the bottom and 10 inches away from the top of the bag). Fill the bag with a good soil/compost/manure mix of some kind -- starting from the bottom -- when you are level with a hole, place a seed potato there, level or slight below the bottom lip of the hole, and about 3 inches from the side of the bag (so there is soil between the potato and the hole) -- continue up until the bag is full -- the top layer of potatoes can be planted as usual. Yes, the soil will come out of the holes ... not to worry -- just be sure that the soil covers the topmost holes by at least 6-8inches. That is - each potato planted in the bag should have access to a WINDOW (air and light) OR those planted on the top layer (like a usual planting) should be down about 9 inches or so. The Key to this planting is ALL potatoes need to be able to put leaves somewhere -- they will follow the air and light to find that spot -- all potatoes need water -- so you will be watering from the top of the bag only (like a potted plant) -- but you water DEEPLY, since the water needs to make it to the very bottom potato plants -- so maybe you water every 5 days or so... depends on the soil, temperature, amount of light , amount of wind/air (which whisks moisture away), Additionally, ensure there is drainage at the bottom of the bag .... maybe a two inch hole directly at ground level. It might be better to use a crate of some kind.... rather than a bag...anyhow this set up will work with any kind of potato plant without consideration as to whether or not it can handle towering. Hope this helps. Conversion of inches to cm : 1 inch = 2.5cm

- Celeste Archer

Please provide your email address if you are hoping for a reply


All comments are reviewed before displaying on the site, so your posting will not appear immediately

Gardenate App

Put Gardenate in your pocket. Get our app for iPhone, iPad or Android to add your own plants and record your plantings and harvests

Planting Reminders

Join 60,000+ gardeners who already use Gardenate and subscribe to the free Gardenate planting reminders email newsletter.


Home | Vegetables and herbs to plant | Climate zones | About Gardenate | Contact us | Privacy Policy

This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
We cannot help if you are overrun by giant slugs.