Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
        P P P P P      

(Best months for growing Potato in Australia - sub-tropical regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 10°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 30 - 40 cm apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

21 Dec 13, Andrew (Australia - temperate climate)
There are two ways to harvest potatoes. You can get "new potatoes" which are ones you carefully dig up while the plant is still growing. And then there is the normal way, which is to wait until the plant begins to die back. I usually have one or two plants that I attack while they are still vigorous - but keep others to mature and die back without disturbance. You will always get more potatoes if you keep burying the plant in dirt and letting it grow through. It gives more stem to create lateral roots. good luck
20 Dec 13, Timo (Australia - arid climate)
Potatoes are ready to harvest when the plant dies and the tubers at here fullest of starch and size. If you are going to store them then wait until this time. You can start harvesting any time there is any size to the tubers (size of a baby's fist) but Cook and eat them straight away. Happy gardening-Timo
12 Dec 13, Nic (Australia - temperate climate)
Why do you not grow Cucumbers and Potatos in the same garden bed?
10 Feb 14, Dean (Australia - temperate climate)
Because they compete for nutrients and water and planting this way only diminishes potential harvest.
10 Dec 13, Elwyn (Australia - temperate climate)
Is December too late to plant potatoes I live in Sydney
24 Nov 13, Matto (Australia - temperate climate)
Whales, I have used this info to full extent and have even been inspired to grow some potatoes of my own, they are now about 2 weeks old and growing well
09 Nov 13, Vicki Wildie (Australia - temperate climate)
I have harvested my Dutch Cream potatoes, I'm a first time grower and seemed to get a reasonable crop. I would like to keep some to plant next year. How do I store them until next August? The seed potatoes I used were from an organic nursery.
25 Oct 13, John Hart (Australia - temperate climate)
When do you stop watering potatoes???
27 Oct 13, Elizabeth (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I stop watering them when there leaves start yellowing, once the leaves are fully "dead" harvest.
21 Oct 13, Jan Grainger (Australia - temperate climate)
I lost a whole lot of potatoes to both slaters and slugs. I used beer traps, etc. but there were too many to contend with. Reluctantly, we had the whole property professionally sprayed and this year have none.
Showing 321 - 330 of 561 comments

It depends -- not all potatoes are suitable for towering (layering). Additionally, I have found that the potato plant SPENDS A LOT OF ENERGY GROWING UP, UP, UP, as you cover its leaves with soil (leaves have specialized cells designed to collect light - and why you would want to cover them with soil is beyond me this is not really a good move -- leaves are not roots). My recommendation is: if you have a DEEP PLANTER bag starting at about six inches from the bottom -- in sort of a pattern that looks like the 5 on a die (dice) -- make about 3-4 inch round holes -- and make them on the sides that receive light keeping the holes about 10 inches apart (6 inches away from the bottom and 10 inches away from the top of the bag). Fill the bag with a good soil/compost/manure mix of some kind -- starting from the bottom -- when you are level with a hole, place a seed potato there, level or slight below the bottom lip of the hole, and about 3 inches from the side of the bag (so there is soil between the potato and the hole) -- continue up until the bag is full -- the top layer of potatoes can be planted as usual. Yes, the soil will come out of the holes ... not to worry -- just be sure that the soil covers the topmost holes by at least 6-8inches. That is - each potato planted in the bag should have access to a WINDOW (air and light) OR those planted on the top layer (like a usual planting) should be down about 9 inches or so. The Key to this planting is ALL potatoes need to be able to put leaves somewhere -- they will follow the air and light to find that spot -- all potatoes need water -- so you will be watering from the top of the bag only (like a potted plant) -- but you water DEEPLY, since the water needs to make it to the very bottom potato plants -- so maybe you water every 5 days or so... depends on the soil, temperature, amount of light , amount of wind/air (which whisks moisture away), Additionally, ensure there is drainage at the bottom of the bag .... maybe a two inch hole directly at ground level. It might be better to use a crate of some kind.... rather than a bag...anyhow this set up will work with any kind of potato plant without consideration as to whether or not it can handle towering. Hope this helps. Conversion of inches to cm : 1 inch = 2.5cm

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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