Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      P P              

(Best months for growing Potato in Australia - tropical regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 10°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 30 - 40 cm apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

01 Feb 15, Amy (Australia - temperate climate)
Ok, thanks ! I hope I can wait that long!
04 Nov 14, Natalie (Australia - temperate climate)
Do potatoes mind clay soil. I heard they grow anyway and will help to break up the soil
17 Oct 14, graham (Australia - temperate climate)
i live in tasmania had a frost should i remove the dead parts from my potato plants all just leav them thanks
13 Oct 14, Lachlan (Australia - temperate climate)
If I am doing no dig potatoes, do I need to use crop rotation?
29 Oct 14, Genevieve (Australia - temperate climate)
Absolutely, can't plant potatoes in the same spot for 3-4 years unfortunately due to diseases.
30 Oct 14, Lachlan (Australia - temperate climate)
But they are not in the soil.
15 Nov 14, Genevieve (Australia - temperate climate)
Unsure what you have in your no dig, but used some manured soils, first time I did it , and was advised not to plants spuds in the same spot Now do it in bags, maybe a horticulturist could give you advise.
24 Sep 14, Rowena (Australia - temperate climate)
How do I stop my potato patch from becoming a compost heap? I prepared my soil and when the plants emerged I put a wire cage around them (3ft). They then proceeded to quickly shoot up. I layered straw up around them until the plants reached the height of the wire. I watered the straw once by hand as rain has been good. Then yesterday - 3 days after the hand water - I discovered that two of my plants had wilted and on further investigation they had rotted off just below the first few centimetres of straw on top. I put my hand down into the straw and found it to be an oven - perfect for a compost heap. Should I poke holes in the mound to allow air to circulate? What can I do to save my other plants?
06 Jun 14, timon kemboi (South Africa - Semi-arid climate)
1. How to get best potatoes seed? 2. how to matained potatoes healthy
17 Jun 14, farmgrl (South Africa - Dry summer sub-tropical climate)
Hey timon, you do not grow potatoes from seed you use the tubers that have sprouted if you are looking for an online shop that will provide you with a specific kind of potato you would like to grow have a look at the following link: living seeds.co.za
Showing 301 - 310 of 561 comments

Technically you don't HAVE TO HILL any variety of potatoes. Here's how it works: you plant the seed potato (which is an extra small potato saved/stored from last year's harvest -- or a piece of a larger potato that you stored/saved from last year) -- the DEPTH THAT you PLANT that SEED POTATO determines your LOWEST POINT -- GENERALLY, and I do mean GENERALLY (like 95% of the potatoes) the potato plant will not create tubers LOWER than the depth you planted the seed potato at (so your seed potato is the BOTTOM of the plants tubers/potatoes). Which is why some people think the very bottom potato always rots, when in reality it is the seed potato and is expected to grow and will appear rotten. Which means if you don't hill up as your potato plant grows and you planted the seed potato shallow, there is not that much ROOM for the potato plant to put it's tubers, and larger tubers will usually "pop" out of the soil and turn green due to sun exposure. If you don't want to hill up, plant your seed potato deeper than recommended -- yes it will be fine -- the reason you plant shallow and mound up is because the potato plant will be able to get leaves into the sun sooner if it's seed potato was planted shallow, which means it will grow quicker because it is collecting light sooner -- then you mound up to offset that you planted the seed potato shallow, but you always leave lots of leaves exposed to the sun so the plant can collect sun and grow. It's a lot of extra work work to mound up soil-- and maybe speeds up the process "brings in the harvest" by 10 days or so.... My experience is planting seed potatoes a foot deep ((30cm) is fine -- yes the plant takes a little longer for it's leaves to surface -- but it's fine and you should not experience any problems - provided the soil is nice and loose. (hopefully that makes senses). I think in the future I will plant two potatoes side by side -- one deep, one using the mound method and record the progress and final outcomes... I have never done a tandem planting -- BUT I HAVE had potatoes spring up from deep down Once as I dug out one of these "self planted potatoes" I realized it was down about 30" (70cm) -- it was in a potato planting tower (old full size garbage can full of 3" holes all over) which I dumped and collect the potatoes from the year before, then just put the soil back, week by week, as I composted kitchen scraps directly into the soil... so no surprise that a potato was so deep -- it grew -- it put out potatoes and it's crop was average good... it spent a lot of energy growing up -- and perhaps I harvested too early based on the other potatoes-- but it made it and did OK, good size potatoes, good quantity. I would not recommend placing your seed potatoes that deep, but a foot (30cm) should be fine.

- Celeste Archer

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