Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
        P P P P P      

(Best months for growing Potato in Australia - sub-tropical regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 10°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 30 - 40 cm apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

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31 Oct 15, michelle (Australia - temperate climate)
I am moving to tara Queensland and was wanting to grow potatoes could you please tell me what is the best thing to grow there.
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29 Oct 15, alan jones (Australia - temperate climate)
I tried growing potatoes from tubers from Bunnings.I grew them in a wall compound 250mm high, as they grew I back filled and put another course of bricks on top giving me 500mm in height. They grew well but later did not come to flower??. In time the plants slowly died off and once dead I set about getting the spuds out. I was dissappointed as there was a little crop and most were the size of a large grape, and only 4 were useable. It looked like they could have spent another month or so to grow bigger, but plant was dead and shrivelled up?? Can anyone give advice what I have done wrong and what to do next season thanks Alan
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07 Jan 16, Susan (Australia - temperate climate)
I also am having similar problems , only difference is I used organic seed, but very disappointed with results. Does any one have suggestions cheers
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26 Oct 15, Cassie (Australia - temperate climate)
Regarding the potatoes spoiling or dying... They store very well in the ground. The ones that you don't harvest will happily stay there until the following season. When the weather is right they will send out shoots. We planted potatoes in our garden several years ago, and now they grow like a welcome weed... We are always finding them in unusual places. I have one patch of garden that seems to always have potatoes buried for whenever I need them. So you needn't fear missing the harvest window... they will last a long time in the ground.
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09 Oct 15, graham paul (Australia - temperate climate)
I have grown potatoes in the past and had good results this time they grew to about 30cm and 1 wilted and died the rest grew to about 40cm which to me seems a bit higher than usual and gradually others are wilting also well before flowering, Can someone help me with problem. Regards Graham
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07 Oct 15, Janet Angel (Australia - temperate climate)
Last season my potatoes grew stems whose cross section was square, ie 4 ridges up the stem, the leaves curled and no potatoes developed. What ever it was that caused this also affected everything else in the night shade family, tomatoes, eggplants, chillies and capsicum to fail. No one seems to know what caused this!! Any clues!!
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30 Sep 15, Carl Dalton (Australia - temperate climate)
Can you tell me if Jersey Mids (Royals) potatoes are available in Australia, and if so where I can purchase them from Cheers Carl
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02 Dec 15, Tony Herve (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Carl I have some seed potatoes JR They are stack i got some 40 years ago, so they need some virus testing work on them to get them back to being more productive Tony Herve
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16 Oct 15, Chris Petersen (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
"Seed Potatoes Victoria" have a "PDF" you might find helpful. Sorry you will have to do a search for it as this site won't allow me to post the hyperlink. I didn't see them on their list, however it has a plethora of helpful contact information of growers/suppliers throughout Australia. Happy hunting, Chris.
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22 Sep 15, Jen (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
There is no mention when one can expect the first potato shoots to show above ground?? How long do I have to wait before they may be spoilt or dead???Especially in experimental container growing?>?> thank you Jen
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I heard that the potato will stop sending nutrients to the tubers if the stalks are bent. One of the most successful potato harvests I have ever seen was a large container grown project where he used several layers (think of a layer cake) of horizontal plastic fencing and t-posts at each corner to hold the horizontal fencing to keep the stalks from bending at all and support them as they grew. They were able to get an absolutely massive yield with that method although he was sick all summer and didn't care for them or water them at all. I am not sure that the container growing was as pivotal in the results as just keeping the stalks from bending over. I have container grown before and will try it again this spring as well as ground growing using his methods to keep the stalks upright. I think another often overlooked issue is either too much or too little phosphorus and potash in 10-10-10 fertilizer. I think 'balanced' fertilizers can present real problems for root crops since they don't need or want balanced inputs. You will always have too much of something and too little of the other. Also there is a time delay on phosphorus while it stays in the upper part of the soil, so you can apply phosphorus to increase tuber formation, but it takes 3 months to disperse into the soil, while nitrogen sinks like a stone through soil an becomes almost immediately bio-unavailable (or runs off into the environment via water). So if you are using 10-10-10 you are going to end up poisoning your plants in order to get one or another nutrients available in the correct quantity. Plus factor in the time delay to bioavailability. I think it is better to thoroughly prepare soil before you put your garden to bed in the winter than prepare it in the spring (actually I have revived some fruit trees that were very old and no longer producing by fall fertilizing; I got almost $700 worth of organic pears and even more than this in apples last year through fall fertilizing). I also heard (and studied it last year in my own garden) that potatoes grow between the seed potato and the surface. If you bury them deep you will increase yields as there is more space for them to grow above the seed potato. But if you plant them shallow, they have a very narrow area to make potatoes in, significantly reducing production. This means in container gardening you need to put them at the very bottom of a 1'-6" (0.45 meters) tall container to get a full yield. I tried this method last year and doubled my production. I was putting them very close to the surface before last year. Also, potatoes need cool roots and won't produce anything at all if their roots are too hot in the container during the summer. Afternoon/evening shade is a must in Southern US zones or other hot environments. Or you could insulate or shade the container.

- Christian

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