Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
        P P P P P      

(Best months for growing Potato in Australia - sub-tropical regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 50°F and 86°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 12 - 16 inches apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

12 Mar 17, Bill Guy (Australia - temperate climate)
We are "virgin" vegetable growers with a small garden. Can we grow potatoes in big plastic pots that a neighbour left behind when she moved. These pots have a tube sticking out at the side at the bottom which i guess is for draining. We have 3 of these pots. We would like to grow new potatoes for Christmas. We live in Adelaide when would plant the seed potatoes. We interested in growing our own organic vegies. Appreciate any advice. Wish us luck. Regards Bill.
13 Mar 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Potatoes can certainly be grown in large pots or tubs. If the pots are about 15 to 20 litres (or more) they wil be ideal. Do the pots have a separate bottom in them? they may be self-watering pots. Put some newspaper or a layer of old cotton clothes or part of the leg of an old pair of jeans in the bottom. This will help hold water and will eventually rot, helping to build up the soil. Add a layer of good potting mix then a layer of old rotted manure. Follow this with another layer of potting mix so that your pot is about half full. Place a couple of pieces of potato or 'seed' potato on this layer and cover with potting mix. Consistent watering is very important for all plants in tubs. As the shoots emerge keep adding potting mix until you have reached the top (some weeks). Potatoes form off the stems on this section of the plant, not off the roots at the base. In colder areas leave planting until late winter. In Adelaide you may be able to put the pots in a sheltered spot and grow them throughout the year. You should have no difficulty having new potatoes for Christmas. New potatoes can be bandicooted about a month after flowering. Just scratch down beside the plant and take them, being careful not to disturb the plant too much. When the tops die off we call them old potatoes. These ones will keep longer. We are very happy to support you in your venture, all my answers or comments will be 'organic'. Keep the questions coming, remembering: 'there is no such thing as a dumb question'. All the best in your move to grow your own 'clean', healthy food.
10 Mar 17, Wendy (Australia - temperate climate)
Can a potatoes be grown in self wicking containers or would they get too damp?
12 Mar 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Potatoes can be grown in wicking beds. If the beds are set up correctly they will only 'wick' the water that they need.
22 Feb 17, kishore (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi I live in Australia-Sydney. I want to grow second crop of potatoes. How can I do that and where can I get the seed potatoes for second crop during Dec-January? Thanks
23 Feb 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
You could certainly grow another crop of potatoes in Sydney. Unless you were a commercial grower it would be difficult to find'certified' seed potatoes at this time of the year. You could plant small potatoes from a shop. Leave them on a bench and let the 'eyes' start to sprout before planting. Do not plant them in the same spot you have just grown tomatoes, capsicums or potatoes as you don't want or need soil-born viruses transmitted.. 'Certified' seed potatoes are grown in tested, virus-free soil before being packaged and sold. 'New' potatoes can be harvested about a month after flowering and 'old' potatoes when the tops die off. All the best.
20 Jan 17, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Thank you Sandra re my question as to whether seed potatoes can still be planted in January where I live in the Dandenong Ranges Melbourne. I will give it a go then if you have successfully planted for three years. Happy Gardening. Heather.
09 Jan 17, heather (Australia - temperate climate)
Could you kindly please advise me if seed potatoes can be planted up until the end of January, I know they recommend from August when danger of frost has passed but unsure whether January is still suitable. I thank you for your reply.
17 Jan 17, sandra (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Heather, I am still planting and growing seed potatoes in the Adelaide hills. Growth atm is rampant, and yes I have bandicooted a few little ones also. I just plant in a 2 metre square, and cover with soil, throw what seedless weeds I have into the plot and then cover again with soil and straw. Not had a problem yet with January being too late in the year and been growing them like this for 3 years.
16 Jan 17, John (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
We seem to have potatoes coming up for most of the year. You should still be safe to plant now even if you only get 'new' potatoes. New potatoes are ready about a month after flowering has finished. The skins rub off easily on new potatoes but won't on old or fully ripe potatoes. Trust this helps
Showing 221 - 230 of 563 comments

I heard that the potato will stop sending nutrients to the tubers if the stalks are bent. One of the most successful potato harvests I have ever seen was a large container grown project where he used several layers (think of a layer cake) of horizontal plastic fencing and t-posts at each corner to hold the horizontal fencing to keep the stalks from bending at all and support them as they grew. They were able to get an absolutely massive yield with that method although he was sick all summer and didn't care for them or water them at all. I am not sure that the container growing was as pivotal in the results as just keeping the stalks from bending over. I have container grown before and will try it again this spring as well as ground growing using his methods to keep the stalks upright. I think another often overlooked issue is either too much or too little phosphorus and potash in 10-10-10 fertilizer. I think 'balanced' fertilizers can present real problems for root crops since they don't need or want balanced inputs. You will always have too much of something and too little of the other. Also there is a time delay on phosphorus while it stays in the upper part of the soil, so you can apply phosphorus to increase tuber formation, but it takes 3 months to disperse into the soil, while nitrogen sinks like a stone through soil an becomes almost immediately bio-unavailable (or runs off into the environment via water). So if you are using 10-10-10 you are going to end up poisoning your plants in order to get one or another nutrients available in the correct quantity. Plus factor in the time delay to bioavailability. I think it is better to thoroughly prepare soil before you put your garden to bed in the winter than prepare it in the spring (actually I have revived some fruit trees that were very old and no longer producing by fall fertilizing; I got almost $700 worth of organic pears and even more than this in apples last year through fall fertilizing). I also heard (and studied it last year in my own garden) that potatoes grow between the seed potato and the surface. If you bury them deep you will increase yields as there is more space for them to grow above the seed potato. But if you plant them shallow, they have a very narrow area to make potatoes in, significantly reducing production. This means in container gardening you need to put them at the very bottom of a 1'-6" (0.45 meters) tall container to get a full yield. I tried this method last year and doubled my production. I was putting them very close to the surface before last year. Also, potatoes need cool roots and won't produce anything at all if their roots are too hot in the container during the summer. Afternoon/evening shade is a must in Southern US zones or other hot environments. Or you could insulate or shade the container.

- Christian

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