Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      P P              

(Best months for growing Potato in Australia - tropical regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 10°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 30 - 40 cm apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

15 Mar 18, (Australia - temperate climate)
Yes I'm aware of that.I think I will try late March and see how it goes in a potato planting bag
01 Feb 18, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Spuds are shooting in pantry. . .does that mean I can plant them now in North Central Victoria?
05 Feb 18, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
A good indicator if shooting.
26 Sep 22, Irene (Australia - tropical climate)
Just wondering, though ... wouldn't your 'climatic conditions' be different in your pantry than in your 'outdoors'? Just because the 'climate' (temp etc) was ok in the pantry, would that necessarily mean the climate/soil temp etc would be suitable? Secondly, what are other's thoughts on planting potatoes chitted in the dark of a pantry .. wouldn't the sprouts be 'leggy' (light starved) and weak?
29 Jan 18, Ava (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I live in emerald area and want to plant potato in a raised garden on concrete and was wondering if they will go well in the ground if planted now
31 Jan 18, Katie (Australia - arid climate)
They will grow better in Winter
02 Feb 18, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
A commercial grower in Bundaberg (about a 6 hr drive south of Emerald) plants in May. Emerald would be a drier place than Bundy and colder in winter. In Bundy they grow two crops sometimes, an Autumn and a Spring crop. Sweet potatoes are grown all year here also.
30 Jan 18, Mike (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
You talk about a raised bed and then say plant in the ground. Leave it until March April.
23 Jan 18, yabbay hahn , epping nsw, (Australia - temperate climate)
in my little plot, soil is clay, hard as rock,,SEP2017 turnd it over 10cm, coverd it with lawn cuttings, from old compost, waterd it daily 1 week, turned soil over again,coverd patch ,,1 inch of cuttings,, layd old potatoes on the surface, coverd them with a few inches of grass cuttings, a quick water in morning, and at sunset, just enough to wet the grass cuttings,.. each week, or when ever I mow lawn, the cuttings go on the patch, .the foliage is large, beautiful flowers, have been picking since dec,, its a personal choice, I love them just bigger than a golf ball, , wait for a hot dry day,, let them lay in sun all day, bring them in before night,
23 Jan 18, Clark (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I have had potatoes in the garden for a few years now. They just seem to be growing wild in the garden. Actually they are running amok. I was just thinking of turning the crop over and starting again with manure and mulch. Should I actually dig all the crop up and replant in an organized fashion or is it OK to just plant and harvest and enjoy nearly all year round.
Showing 151 - 160 of 561 comments

Technically you don't HAVE TO HILL any variety of potatoes. Here's how it works: you plant the seed potato (which is an extra small potato saved/stored from last year's harvest -- or a piece of a larger potato that you stored/saved from last year) -- the DEPTH THAT you PLANT that SEED POTATO determines your LOWEST POINT -- GENERALLY, and I do mean GENERALLY (like 95% of the potatoes) the potato plant will not create tubers LOWER than the depth you planted the seed potato at (so your seed potato is the BOTTOM of the plants tubers/potatoes). Which is why some people think the very bottom potato always rots, when in reality it is the seed potato and is expected to grow and will appear rotten. Which means if you don't hill up as your potato plant grows and you planted the seed potato shallow, there is not that much ROOM for the potato plant to put it's tubers, and larger tubers will usually "pop" out of the soil and turn green due to sun exposure. If you don't want to hill up, plant your seed potato deeper than recommended -- yes it will be fine -- the reason you plant shallow and mound up is because the potato plant will be able to get leaves into the sun sooner if it's seed potato was planted shallow, which means it will grow quicker because it is collecting light sooner -- then you mound up to offset that you planted the seed potato shallow, but you always leave lots of leaves exposed to the sun so the plant can collect sun and grow. It's a lot of extra work work to mound up soil-- and maybe speeds up the process "brings in the harvest" by 10 days or so.... My experience is planting seed potatoes a foot deep ((30cm) is fine -- yes the plant takes a little longer for it's leaves to surface -- but it's fine and you should not experience any problems - provided the soil is nice and loose. (hopefully that makes senses). I think in the future I will plant two potatoes side by side -- one deep, one using the mound method and record the progress and final outcomes... I have never done a tandem planting -- BUT I HAVE had potatoes spring up from deep down Once as I dug out one of these "self planted potatoes" I realized it was down about 30" (70cm) -- it was in a potato planting tower (old full size garbage can full of 3" holes all over) which I dumped and collect the potatoes from the year before, then just put the soil back, week by week, as I composted kitchen scraps directly into the soil... so no surprise that a potato was so deep -- it grew -- it put out potatoes and it's crop was average good... it spent a lot of energy growing up -- and perhaps I harvested too early based on the other potatoes-- but it made it and did OK, good size potatoes, good quantity. I would not recommend placing your seed potatoes that deep, but a foot (30cm) should be fine.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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