Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      P P              

(Best months for growing Potato in Australia - tropical regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 10°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 30 - 40 cm apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

09 Jan 19, Girdhari. C (South Africa - Dry summer sub-tropical climate)
I’m in south America , Suriname , I’m Looking for a type of potatoes Which can be grown in hot Tropical climate, Has any body an idea for me, Thanks a lot & happy gardening, Greetings Cg.
10 Jan 19, Mike (Australia - tropical climate)
Search around on the internet - growing potatoes in Suriname. From similar hot Australia plant 2nd month of Autumn.
19 Dec 18, Shona (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Some of my potato plants are going yellow. Planted 7th October. What can I do do save them.
20 Dec 18, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Probably running out of N and it is very hot and dry now if you are missing the rain like us. Potatoes should be planted a lot earlier for a spring crop - late August very early Sept. Harvested by now.
24 Nov 18, Graham Bower (Australia - temperate climate)
I started planting a variety of spuds mid Aug in Melb, normally after frost danger was over. End sept when plants were around 15-20cm high we had severe frosts and plants got badly burned off. Surprisingly, they recovered well only to get hit hard again 3 weeks later, Once again they recovered. I have just started ferretting out a few early spuds and the crop looks like being one of my best ever. Has anyone ever tried reducing leaf growth by removing some of the tops to see the effects on the crop?
25 Nov 18, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Was it an unusual cold Spring with the frosts? Probably reduce leaf growth by cutting back the N. Last year I put up 3 pieces of 3/4 (what's missing Mike?)
26 Nov 18, Graham Bower (Australia - temperate climate)
Most unusual to get frosts this late or this severe here. What I am getting at is the fact that nature has given me a reduction in top growth and a consequent terrific crop. Later crops have good but not excessive top growth, quite normal, in similar conditions and soil prep. Unsure about crop as yet.
28 Nov 18, Mike L (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Yes I know what you are saying - nature works in a funny way a lot of the time. I use to think produce a good big plant and it will produce a great crop - doesn't work that way though. A balance between the right season, sunlight, nutrient, water etc. You probable had good nutrient which made up for the lack of leaf.
05 Nov 18, Rod (Australia - temperate climate)
I've planted spuds 16-18 weeks ago and have checked them only to find they are soft. What causes this?
10 Nov 18, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Are they soft - rotten or just softish?
Showing 121 - 130 of 561 comments

Technically you don't HAVE TO HILL any variety of potatoes. Here's how it works: you plant the seed potato (which is an extra small potato saved/stored from last year's harvest -- or a piece of a larger potato that you stored/saved from last year) -- the DEPTH THAT you PLANT that SEED POTATO determines your LOWEST POINT -- GENERALLY, and I do mean GENERALLY (like 95% of the potatoes) the potato plant will not create tubers LOWER than the depth you planted the seed potato at (so your seed potato is the BOTTOM of the plants tubers/potatoes). Which is why some people think the very bottom potato always rots, when in reality it is the seed potato and is expected to grow and will appear rotten. Which means if you don't hill up as your potato plant grows and you planted the seed potato shallow, there is not that much ROOM for the potato plant to put it's tubers, and larger tubers will usually "pop" out of the soil and turn green due to sun exposure. If you don't want to hill up, plant your seed potato deeper than recommended -- yes it will be fine -- the reason you plant shallow and mound up is because the potato plant will be able to get leaves into the sun sooner if it's seed potato was planted shallow, which means it will grow quicker because it is collecting light sooner -- then you mound up to offset that you planted the seed potato shallow, but you always leave lots of leaves exposed to the sun so the plant can collect sun and grow. It's a lot of extra work work to mound up soil-- and maybe speeds up the process "brings in the harvest" by 10 days or so.... My experience is planting seed potatoes a foot deep ((30cm) is fine -- yes the plant takes a little longer for it's leaves to surface -- but it's fine and you should not experience any problems - provided the soil is nice and loose. (hopefully that makes senses). I think in the future I will plant two potatoes side by side -- one deep, one using the mound method and record the progress and final outcomes... I have never done a tandem planting -- BUT I HAVE had potatoes spring up from deep down Once as I dug out one of these "self planted potatoes" I realized it was down about 30" (70cm) -- it was in a potato planting tower (old full size garbage can full of 3" holes all over) which I dumped and collect the potatoes from the year before, then just put the soil back, week by week, as I composted kitchen scraps directly into the soil... so no surprise that a potato was so deep -- it grew -- it put out potatoes and it's crop was average good... it spent a lot of energy growing up -- and perhaps I harvested too early based on the other potatoes-- but it made it and did OK, good size potatoes, good quantity. I would not recommend placing your seed potatoes that deep, but a foot (30cm) should be fine.

- Celeste Archer

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