Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      P P              

(Best months for growing Potato in Australia - tropical regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 10°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 30 - 40 cm apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

09 Feb 20, Liz (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Check here for suitable planting times www.gardenate.com/plant/Potato?zone=2
06 Feb 20, Margareth Parua (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
Where can I buy sequoia potato seedlings?
06 Feb 20, Anon (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
You actually buy seed potatoes. That is actually a potato to plant not a seed.
06 Feb 20, Anon (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Look up seed selling companies, nurseries, farm produce agencies.
03 Feb 20, tristan kawau (Australia - temperate climate)
this so helpful
05 Jan 20, Sarah-Jane Wicks (Australia - temperate climate)
We used seed potatoes to grow Kilgore in our school garden. As the tops have now died off we harvested them today, only to yield Ferny tiny potatoes. Less than 300g from a whole 3.6m x 1.2m garden bed. The potatoes were watered a minimum of 4-5days per week, were regularly fertilised and grown beside sweetcorn. How did this go so wrong. We yielded less than the bag of seed potatoes that we planted. The soil was beautiful and rich. We mounded around the growth for the first 6weeks. So disappointing. Any help greatly appreciated.
06 Jan 20, Anon (Australia - temperate climate)
I would say you over fertilised them way too much, and probably too much water. That would produce a lot of leaves and little potatoes. In future prepare the ground adding manures compost etc., don't over do it though. They WILL NOT require any more fertilising. When young a lightish watering each day or two. When bigger a good watering 2-3 times a week, depending on temperatures. Put your figer in the soil to see if wet or dry and water accordingly.
03 Nov 19, Woza (Australia - temperate climate)
Are the green potatoes safe to eat? I always get a few in my crop
04 Nov 19, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
IT IS NOT SAFE TO EAT THEM. It is caused by the potato being exposed to the sun. In future keep the potatoes covered with soil to stop this happening.
17 Oct 19, Alan (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
When do they harvest potatoes
Showing 91 - 100 of 561 comments

Technically you don't HAVE TO HILL any variety of potatoes. Here's how it works: you plant the seed potato (which is an extra small potato saved/stored from last year's harvest -- or a piece of a larger potato that you stored/saved from last year) -- the DEPTH THAT you PLANT that SEED POTATO determines your LOWEST POINT -- GENERALLY, and I do mean GENERALLY (like 95% of the potatoes) the potato plant will not create tubers LOWER than the depth you planted the seed potato at (so your seed potato is the BOTTOM of the plants tubers/potatoes). Which is why some people think the very bottom potato always rots, when in reality it is the seed potato and is expected to grow and will appear rotten. Which means if you don't hill up as your potato plant grows and you planted the seed potato shallow, there is not that much ROOM for the potato plant to put it's tubers, and larger tubers will usually "pop" out of the soil and turn green due to sun exposure. If you don't want to hill up, plant your seed potato deeper than recommended -- yes it will be fine -- the reason you plant shallow and mound up is because the potato plant will be able to get leaves into the sun sooner if it's seed potato was planted shallow, which means it will grow quicker because it is collecting light sooner -- then you mound up to offset that you planted the seed potato shallow, but you always leave lots of leaves exposed to the sun so the plant can collect sun and grow. It's a lot of extra work work to mound up soil-- and maybe speeds up the process "brings in the harvest" by 10 days or so.... My experience is planting seed potatoes a foot deep ((30cm) is fine -- yes the plant takes a little longer for it's leaves to surface -- but it's fine and you should not experience any problems - provided the soil is nice and loose. (hopefully that makes senses). I think in the future I will plant two potatoes side by side -- one deep, one using the mound method and record the progress and final outcomes... I have never done a tandem planting -- BUT I HAVE had potatoes spring up from deep down Once as I dug out one of these "self planted potatoes" I realized it was down about 30" (70cm) -- it was in a potato planting tower (old full size garbage can full of 3" holes all over) which I dumped and collect the potatoes from the year before, then just put the soil back, week by week, as I composted kitchen scraps directly into the soil... so no surprise that a potato was so deep -- it grew -- it put out potatoes and it's crop was average good... it spent a lot of energy growing up -- and perhaps I harvested too early based on the other potatoes-- but it made it and did OK, good size potatoes, good quantity. I would not recommend placing your seed potatoes that deep, but a foot (30cm) should be fine.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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