Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      P P              

(Best months for growing Potato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 50°F and 86°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 12 - 16 inches apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

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10 Mar 21, Heather Warren (USA - Zone 8b climate)
I live in Squamish, BC. (Zone 8b). When can I start putting potatoes in buckets? :) (Gardenate: Try here /www.gardenate.com/plant/Potato?zone=12 )
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14 Feb 21, Chef (USA - Zone 8a climate)
New to container potatoes Looking at Early types Late types Larger the better Thank you all for your time
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16 Feb 21, Anonymous (USA - Zone 4a climate)
Look up the internet for varieties in your state/country.
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09 Feb 21, Patricia Adams (USA - Zone 8b climate)
I'm a beginner an is really fascinated with patio & container garden.what information can you give to be successful
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01 Mar 21, Matt stephens (USA - Zone 9b climate)
My first season growing potatoes was last year. We used the Ruth Stout Method and had no problems. We created the raised bed, turned the dirt and added a layer of compost, then put the potatoes down and laid hay on top. We added a good 6-10 in of straw over the top when the sprout came out of the soil. Best and easiest method I have ever seen or heard of. What is described on here is also interesting, I just don't have enough cardboard or newspaper, so I'll be using straw again this year. Just a side note, we have seen/heard people grow things directly in the straw bale too. Usually when they don't have space in their yard, or no yard at all. This method also works well. Good luck!
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04 Dec 21, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 7b Mild Temperate climate)
I've used straw to mound my potatoes and had a lot of issues with slugs and other insects. The straw also made it difficult to water (surprisingly), I had to add a lot of water to get down to the plant roots - I think when it is all soil, the water distributes better. I would use straw again, but it would not be my go to choice; but when there's not enough soil, straw is certainly easy to transport, light and affordable, additionally it is a byproduct (3rd cut) of another process. The straw also left the underlying soil in really good shape (taking the brunt of the sun and wind).
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12 Feb 21, colleen (USA - Zone 10b climate)
That's a big subject! I'd say it depends on what you're trying to achieve. Do you just want a few really good veggies? Do you want to grow as much of your daily food as possible? Does your garden need to be aesthetically pleasing? There are lots of books on container gardening, you could try browsing your local library online. If space is limited, I say think about which veggies you love the most, which are pricey at the store, and which are most improved by eating fresh. Basil and salad greens for instance, are very easy to grow but very overpriced at the store. Corn and tomatoes are so much better homegrown. Whereas potatoes and onions are cheap at the store and not THAT much better homegrown so they're only worth it if you have plenty of space to devote. My advice for a beginner would be to start small and manageable, and build on that each year. Maybe this year buy a couple of Earthboxes or DIY a knockoff, and just grow a few of your favorite veggies. This will also reveal what some of your challenges might be. For instance my first year raccoons ate all my sweet corn, that taught me I would need a good fence in the future. ;-)
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11 Feb 21, Gary Hall (Australia - arid climate)
Patricia you need to find out what the Potato season is for your climate Zone 8b is check with local Nursery or where you buy seed potato don't use culinary potato's as they might have fungus or disease.
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31 Dec 20, max (USA - Zone 5a climate)
Some gardeners keep stacking wood boxes and a light soil mix as the plants grow. It is said that potatoes will fill the whole stack of boxes. My attempts at this have failed. Can this approach be made to work?
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27 Mar 21, Sarah (USA - Zone 5b climate)
I tried the same last season and it didn't work for me either...kept hauling dirt and leaves uphill to potato tower with no results come harvest time. That was my first year growing potatoes. I just found out this morning that potatoes can be determinate or indeterminate. Determinate types supposedly have a smaller plant,, harvest earlier, and only grow in one layer thus do not require hilling(although they should be covered enough so roots don't show). I must have planted a determinate variety last year. because mine only grew in one layer. Check the variety you are planning to grow. I bought seed potatoes this year and am about to plant them. I have more confidence now that I know. what they are and how they behave!
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Showing 31 - 40 of 65 comments
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I heard that the potato will stop sending nutrients to the tubers if the stalks are bent. One of the most successful potato harvests I have ever seen was a large container grown project where he used several layers (think of a layer cake) of horizontal plastic fencing and t-posts at each corner to hold the horizontal fencing to keep the stalks from bending at all and support them as they grew. They were able to get an absolutely massive yield with that method although he was sick all summer and didn't care for them or water them at all. I am not sure that the container growing was as pivotal in the results as just keeping the stalks from bending over. I have container grown before and will try it again this spring as well as ground growing using his methods to keep the stalks upright. I think another often overlooked issue is either too much or too little phosphorus and potash in 10-10-10 fertilizer. I think 'balanced' fertilizers can present real problems for root crops since they don't need or want balanced inputs. You will always have too much of something and too little of the other. Also there is a time delay on phosphorus while it stays in the upper part of the soil, so you can apply phosphorus to increase tuber formation, but it takes 3 months to disperse into the soil, while nitrogen sinks like a stone through soil an becomes almost immediately bio-unavailable (or runs off into the environment via water). So if you are using 10-10-10 you are going to end up poisoning your plants in order to get one or another nutrients available in the correct quantity. Plus factor in the time delay to bioavailability. I think it is better to thoroughly prepare soil before you put your garden to bed in the winter than prepare it in the spring (actually I have revived some fruit trees that were very old and no longer producing by fall fertilizing; I got almost $700 worth of organic pears and even more than this in apples last year through fall fertilizing). I also heard (and studied it last year in my own garden) that potatoes grow between the seed potato and the surface. If you bury them deep you will increase yields as there is more space for them to grow above the seed potato. But if you plant them shallow, they have a very narrow area to make potatoes in, significantly reducing production. This means in container gardening you need to put them at the very bottom of a 1'-6" (0.45 meters) tall container to get a full yield. I tried this method last year and doubled my production. I was putting them very close to the surface before last year. Also, potatoes need cool roots and won't produce anything at all if their roots are too hot in the container during the summer. Afternoon/evening shade is a must in Southern US zones or other hot environments. Or you could insulate or shade the container.

- Christian

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