Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
        P P P P P      

(Best months for growing Potato in Australia - sub-tropical regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 10°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 30 - 40 cm apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

18 Jul 20, Judy Osborne (Australia - temperate climate)
I have grown potatoes before only to find the potato to be a clear waxy look when harvested. I waited for the plants to die down before harvesting but they have always looked like that and not the usual solid white like normal bought ones. What couild the problem be?
20 Jul 20, Anon (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Look up a company called NUTRIEN AG SOLUTIONS and call them and ask them.
12 Jul 20, Sue (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi, we are going to try potatoes in bags and would like to grow indeterminate varieties, does anyone know which ones are, as there is no info on any of the seed bags I have read, thanks in advance.
12 Aug 20, alex (Australia - temperate climate)
The only indeterminate variety I can be sure of is Desiree. Kipfler and ruby Lou are terminate varieties. hope that helps .
18 Aug 20, Sue (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanks Alex, we have gone for Nicola and Brake Light, we will see how they go. We are planting them this week, cheers.
13 Jul 20, (Australia - temperate climate)
I had never heard of indeterminate potatoes. There are thousands of varieties of potatoes but only about 6-8 are grown commercially in Australia. Ring a seed selling company like The Diggers Club to see if they can help you.
07 Aug 20, Jsne (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
The above growing diagram inducates ASO as the best growing months for spuds in sub-tropical zones?
07 Aug 20, Jane (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hmm! Digger's Club. Is it really worth joining? I have purchased seeds or plants from some places in the past that havenot been fruitful at all. Thnx.
14 Jul 20, Sue (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanks, I never thought to do that.
11 Jul 20, Michael (Australia - temperate climate)
hi, I have a raised garden bed 1.2x1.2x400, how many seed potatoes would be appropriate to grow in this area?
Showing 61 - 70 of 561 comments

Technically you don't HAVE TO HILL any variety of potatoes. Here's how it works: you plant the seed potato (which is an extra small potato saved/stored from last year's harvest -- or a piece of a larger potato that you stored/saved from last year) -- the DEPTH THAT you PLANT that SEED POTATO determines your LOWEST POINT -- GENERALLY, and I do mean GENERALLY (like 95% of the potatoes) the potato plant will not create tubers LOWER than the depth you planted the seed potato at (so your seed potato is the BOTTOM of the plants tubers/potatoes). Which is why some people think the very bottom potato always rots, when in reality it is the seed potato and is expected to grow and will appear rotten. Which means if you don't hill up as your potato plant grows and you planted the seed potato shallow, there is not that much ROOM for the potato plant to put it's tubers, and larger tubers will usually "pop" out of the soil and turn green due to sun exposure. If you don't want to hill up, plant your seed potato deeper than recommended -- yes it will be fine -- the reason you plant shallow and mound up is because the potato plant will be able to get leaves into the sun sooner if it's seed potato was planted shallow, which means it will grow quicker because it is collecting light sooner -- then you mound up to offset that you planted the seed potato shallow, but you always leave lots of leaves exposed to the sun so the plant can collect sun and grow. It's a lot of extra work work to mound up soil-- and maybe speeds up the process "brings in the harvest" by 10 days or so.... My experience is planting seed potatoes a foot deep ((30cm) is fine -- yes the plant takes a little longer for it's leaves to surface -- but it's fine and you should not experience any problems - provided the soil is nice and loose. (hopefully that makes senses). I think in the future I will plant two potatoes side by side -- one deep, one using the mound method and record the progress and final outcomes... I have never done a tandem planting -- BUT I HAVE had potatoes spring up from deep down Once as I dug out one of these "self planted potatoes" I realized it was down about 30" (70cm) -- it was in a potato planting tower (old full size garbage can full of 3" holes all over) which I dumped and collect the potatoes from the year before, then just put the soil back, week by week, as I composted kitchen scraps directly into the soil... so no surprise that a potato was so deep -- it grew -- it put out potatoes and it's crop was average good... it spent a lot of energy growing up -- and perhaps I harvested too early based on the other potatoes-- but it made it and did OK, good size potatoes, good quantity. I would not recommend placing your seed potatoes that deep, but a foot (30cm) should be fine.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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