Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      P P              

(Best months for growing Potato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 50°F and 86°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 12 - 16 inches apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

09 Jan 19, Girdhari. C (South Africa - Dry summer sub-tropical climate)
I’m in south America , Suriname , I’m Looking for a type of potatoes Which can be grown in hot Tropical climate, Has any body an idea for me, Thanks a lot & happy gardening, Greetings Cg.
10 Jan 19, Mike (Australia - tropical climate)
Search around on the internet - growing potatoes in Suriname. From similar hot Australia plant 2nd month of Autumn.
19 Dec 18, Shona (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Some of my potato plants are going yellow. Planted 7th October. What can I do do save them.
20 Dec 18, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Probably running out of N and it is very hot and dry now if you are missing the rain like us. Potatoes should be planted a lot earlier for a spring crop - late August very early Sept. Harvested by now.
24 Nov 18, Graham Bower (Australia - temperate climate)
I started planting a variety of spuds mid Aug in Melb, normally after frost danger was over. End sept when plants were around 15-20cm high we had severe frosts and plants got badly burned off. Surprisingly, they recovered well only to get hit hard again 3 weeks later, Once again they recovered. I have just started ferretting out a few early spuds and the crop looks like being one of my best ever. Has anyone ever tried reducing leaf growth by removing some of the tops to see the effects on the crop?
25 Nov 18, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Was it an unusual cold Spring with the frosts? Probably reduce leaf growth by cutting back the N. Last year I put up 3 pieces of 3/4 (what's missing Mike?)
26 Nov 18, Graham Bower (Australia - temperate climate)
Most unusual to get frosts this late or this severe here. What I am getting at is the fact that nature has given me a reduction in top growth and a consequent terrific crop. Later crops have good but not excessive top growth, quite normal, in similar conditions and soil prep. Unsure about crop as yet.
28 Nov 18, Mike L (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Yes I know what you are saying - nature works in a funny way a lot of the time. I use to think produce a good big plant and it will produce a great crop - doesn't work that way though. A balance between the right season, sunlight, nutrient, water etc. You probable had good nutrient which made up for the lack of leaf.
05 Nov 18, Rod (Australia - temperate climate)
I've planted spuds 16-18 weeks ago and have checked them only to find they are soft. What causes this?
10 Nov 18, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Are they soft - rotten or just softish?
Showing 121 - 130 of 561 comments

It depends -- not all potatoes are suitable for towering (layering). Additionally, I have found that the potato plant SPENDS A LOT OF ENERGY GROWING UP, UP, UP, as you cover its leaves with soil (leaves have specialized cells designed to collect light - and why you would want to cover them with soil is beyond me this is not really a good move -- leaves are not roots). My recommendation is: if you have a DEEP PLANTER bag starting at about six inches from the bottom -- in sort of a pattern that looks like the 5 on a die (dice) -- make about 3-4 inch round holes -- and make them on the sides that receive light keeping the holes about 10 inches apart (6 inches away from the bottom and 10 inches away from the top of the bag). Fill the bag with a good soil/compost/manure mix of some kind -- starting from the bottom -- when you are level with a hole, place a seed potato there, level or slight below the bottom lip of the hole, and about 3 inches from the side of the bag (so there is soil between the potato and the hole) -- continue up until the bag is full -- the top layer of potatoes can be planted as usual. Yes, the soil will come out of the holes ... not to worry -- just be sure that the soil covers the topmost holes by at least 6-8inches. That is - each potato planted in the bag should have access to a WINDOW (air and light) OR those planted on the top layer (like a usual planting) should be down about 9 inches or so. The Key to this planting is ALL potatoes need to be able to put leaves somewhere -- they will follow the air and light to find that spot -- all potatoes need water -- so you will be watering from the top of the bag only (like a potted plant) -- but you water DEEPLY, since the water needs to make it to the very bottom potato plants -- so maybe you water every 5 days or so... depends on the soil, temperature, amount of light , amount of wind/air (which whisks moisture away), Additionally, ensure there is drainage at the bottom of the bag .... maybe a two inch hole directly at ground level. It might be better to use a crate of some kind.... rather than a bag...anyhow this set up will work with any kind of potato plant without consideration as to whether or not it can handle towering. Hope this helps. Conversion of inches to cm : 1 inch = 2.5cm

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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