Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      P P              

(Best months for growing Potato in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 50°F and 86°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 12 - 16 inches apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

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31 Mar 21, Denise (Australia - tropical climate)
I live in tropical region in Darwin & would like to plant the sebago potatoes in breathable cloth grow bags. Do I plant starting at the bottom or just plant on top? Medium will be potting mix & permits.
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12 Dec 21, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 7b Mild Temperate climate)
Sorry for the late post -- I think I have the information you are looking for. First NOT ALL potatoes are suited for "tower" growth. So the first question would be how deep are your bags; if the bags are deep enough to be considered a tower, then you need to cross check this with the variety of potato you are growing. Second: when you plant a piece of potato (seed potato) this is your LOWEST POINT. Generally, a potato plant will not produce/store and tubers (potatoes) BELOW the level of the seed potato. This is why people plant the seed potatoes, wait for the green leaves to come up, and mound soil, always leaving enough leaves sticking out to collect light. You'll also note at harvest, that the lowest potato seems to have rotted; this was your seed potato that grew the plant. We plant the seed potato shallow, so the leaves get to the sun sooner/easier and start collecting light; then we mound the soil so there is room for the potato plant to set its tubers (potatoes) -- this means, that you plant you seed potatoes at the bottom of the sack, covering them with several inches of soil, and as the potato plant grows, you add soil.... always try to leave plenty of leaves sticking out of the soil so the plant can collect sun. Hope this help. From the Eagle Creek site (about their tower potato mix): Not all types of potatoes are suited for container growing, typically fingerling and late season varieties yield best. Bellanita, Bintje, Amarosa & German Butterball are the 4 varieties in this package.
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06 Apr 21, Anon (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
You plant near the bottom and add more soil as they grow. There is more information on the internet about growing them this way.
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26 Jan 21, krissy (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
HI I want to grow my own potatoes? which would be the best type to grow in queensland I want to do a NO dig potato bed.
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27 Jan 21, Anonymous (Australia - arid climate)
Pick the potato you want to grow and grow it. Different potatoes are better for different use in cooking.
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10 Oct 20, John (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Im looking for seed potatoes for sale near Childers. I would like a decent size bag of them rather than the 6 or so i got from a local produce store. Anyone know where i can get bulk spuds seeds. TIA John
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12 Oct 20, Anon (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Phone Boylans in Bundaberg and ask. They buy by the sack full.
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04 Sep 20, Richard Allan (Australia - temperate climate)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgJa2wrX6lA&t=481s
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07 Aug 20, Jane (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I was so disappointed my marrows n things were attacked/eaten/went to pot I stopped gardening. I've got my second wind! If I use store-bought spuds, can I plant them if they get eyes/will they actually grow and land on my plate? Live this site-thanks!! Stay safe.
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10 Aug 20, Anon (Australia - temperate climate)
The difference between store potatoes and buying certified seed potatoes is disease. Store are more likely to be effected by disease. But if you have good fresh soil that hasn't had a lot of disease in it then you probably might be able to produce a good crop. You can grow a crop in the spring but also try planting late April early May.
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Showing 51 - 60 of 561 comments
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I heard that the potato will stop sending nutrients to the tubers if the stalks are bent. One of the most successful potato harvests I have ever seen was a large container grown project where he used several layers (think of a layer cake) of horizontal plastic fencing and t-posts at each corner to hold the horizontal fencing to keep the stalks from bending at all and support them as they grew. They were able to get an absolutely massive yield with that method although he was sick all summer and didn't care for them or water them at all. I am not sure that the container growing was as pivotal in the results as just keeping the stalks from bending over. I have container grown before and will try it again this spring as well as ground growing using his methods to keep the stalks upright. I think another often overlooked issue is either too much or too little phosphorus and potash in 10-10-10 fertilizer. I think 'balanced' fertilizers can present real problems for root crops since they don't need or want balanced inputs. You will always have too much of something and too little of the other. Also there is a time delay on phosphorus while it stays in the upper part of the soil, so you can apply phosphorus to increase tuber formation, but it takes 3 months to disperse into the soil, while nitrogen sinks like a stone through soil an becomes almost immediately bio-unavailable (or runs off into the environment via water). So if you are using 10-10-10 you are going to end up poisoning your plants in order to get one or another nutrients available in the correct quantity. Plus factor in the time delay to bioavailability. I think it is better to thoroughly prepare soil before you put your garden to bed in the winter than prepare it in the spring (actually I have revived some fruit trees that were very old and no longer producing by fall fertilizing; I got almost $700 worth of organic pears and even more than this in apples last year through fall fertilizing). I also heard (and studied it last year in my own garden) that potatoes grow between the seed potato and the surface. If you bury them deep you will increase yields as there is more space for them to grow above the seed potato. But if you plant them shallow, they have a very narrow area to make potatoes in, significantly reducing production. This means in container gardening you need to put them at the very bottom of a 1'-6" (0.45 meters) tall container to get a full yield. I tried this method last year and doubled my production. I was putting them very close to the surface before last year. Also, potatoes need cool roots and won't produce anything at all if their roots are too hot in the container during the summer. Afternoon/evening shade is a must in Southern US zones or other hot environments. Or you could insulate or shade the container.

- Christian

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