Growing Ginger

Zingiber Officinale : Zingiberaceae / the ginger family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
P P P           P P P P

(Best months for growing Ginger in Australia - sub-tropical regions)

  • P = Plant root
  • Plant pieces of fresh root showing signs of shoots. Best planted at soil temperatures between 20°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 15 cm apart
  • Harvest in approximately 25 weeks. Reduce water as plant dies back to encourage rhizome growth.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Grow in separate bed

Your comments and tips

15 Mar 22, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have never grown it but probably half a 200l drum. The smaller the pot the more critical the attention to watering and fertilising. Or half a 60l drum. Try at motor car servicing centers.
15 Feb 22, pattatas (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Ginger is very expensive here in Tasmania at the moment. $65/kilo! How large do the pieces of 'root' with sprouting bud have to be to be viable? (I get them started in a small pot kept above the fridge which benefits from the extra warmth generated.)
09 May 22, Toni (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Start with a piece about as big as your thumb. Don't plant until Summer in Tassie or the root will just rot.
22 Feb 22, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I'm Bundaberg Qld - someone here advertising on Facebook Market Place selling Ginger (he may have run out by now) $30/kg. You can have up to 5kg posted to you for $9.50 or $13. You would only get about 1.5-1.75kg in small bag and probably 3kg in bigger bag. I could find out their phone number.
18 Feb 22, (Australia - temperate climate)
Ginger is a warm/hot climate crop.
24 Jan 22, Mssashi Ura (Australia - tropical climate)
I just discovered lots of curl grubs in ginger roots when I replanted them because they are not going well. Is there any method to prevent curl grubs? Neem oil works but is not suitable for edible plants.
03 May 22, Jody Essenhigh (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Neem can definitely be used on edibles and is widely used in organic farming. You can get eco neem as well.
04 Feb 22, Smithy (Australia - tropical climate)
Neem oil should help. They don't like water, keep garden or lawns moist.
27 Jan 22, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Use Condy's crystals. Something like tea spoon in 1-2l of water.
20 Jan 22, Mosushi (Australia - tropical climate)
I have been growing ginger in rectangular pot (20cm deep, 20cm X20cm width). It has been growing but lately some of leaves turned yellow and the plan is not growing well. I moved the pot to an area with more shade because I thought it was getting too much sun but leaves are still turning yellow. The soil is almost always moist or wet so I don't think there is shortage of water. I just want to know what is the reason of poor growth. The pot was initially filled with good potting mix which should last 6 months. Do I need to give liquid fertilizer or something? If so, how much should I give?
Showing 21 - 30 of 254 comments

Hi! I live in Newcastle too! I know u mentioned u wanted heirloom ginger (I’m not sure u will get “Heirloom” ginger as such-there are several different varieties of edible ginger though). I just bought mine from the supermarket (if u wanted, u could look for organic ginger in supermarket/farmers market etc.) with signs of tiny shoots (u want to make sure of this as sometimes they can be treated with chemicals that prevent shooting-although it seems producers are not using these chemicals as much these days). If u didn’t want to go the supermarket route, u could try Daleys Fruit Tree Nursery (Kyogle, NSW-they have a mail order service & lots of unusual/rare/interesting fruit/herb/spice plants-I find it near impossible not to buy something when I visit the site!). I’m fairly sure greenharvest.com.au has them. Diggers (Dromana, VIC) may also be another possibility. I just did a quick search “buy edible ginger NSW Australia” & got several hits. I left the rhizome out of the soil for a couple of weeks to let the shoots develop more, then planted it. I would buy your ginger a couple of weeks prior to the beginning of spring so it has time to shoot before planting in early spring, as ginger dies back a couple of weeks into winter in Newcastle. You could bring your plant inside for winter if it’s a possibility for you, as it would allow continuous growth-I would probably have a pretty impressive plant by now if I was able to bring mine inside, as Newcastle winters make the plant completely dormant & slows its growth significantly with it having to “come back” each year. Make sure u water minimally over winter, or your rhizome will rot & not reshoot. I wish I had known that ginger dies back in winter here early on, as my first planting died because I planted it in the middle of summer. It just didn’t get enough growth on to make it through the winter and reshoot! I also suggest you don’t harvest it for at least a couple of years, to get the plant really established (as it takes a LOT out of the plant to reshoot each year). I’ve had mine for about 3 years, & it’s successfully “come back” after 2 winters now. I haven’t harvested anything yet, and don’t plan to for another year or so, just to make sure. I grow mine in a big pot, & it’s quite happy in partial shade (I live in a block of flats). Recently, I saw a YouTube video describing a different method of growing ginger that results in better/quicker production-I think I’m going to give it a go! I think I would start this process around mid winter, so plants have spring/summer to get going before winter. 1. Place the rhizome in a container of moist soil, just barely covered (you still need to be able to see the tuber and what it’s doing) 2. Let it shoot. 3. When the shoots are at least a couple of centimetres long(the bigger the better), the base of the shoot should have a bulbous appearance (yellowish in colour) with little bumps on it that will become roots. 4. When there is a decent number of bumps/developing roots, break this off the rhizome (it should break off easily), and plant so the bulbous part of the shoot is well covered (at least 3cm deep-but depends on size of shoot). Don’t plant too deep, or the shoot could rot. You can always add more soil as the shoot grows to ensure the tuber is well covered. 5. Replant the rhizome and wait for the next shoot, repeating the process until the rhizome doesn’t produce anymore shoots. I would probably try planting the “mother” rhizome as well, as u have nothing to loose-it may grow as well! You could buy several rhizomes at the same time & follow this method-it would result in more plants, just in case some don’t make it through their first winter. Apparently this is a method that many commercial growers use for higher/faster production. Goodluck!!!

- Rachael

Please provide your email address if you are hoping for a reply


All comments are reviewed before displaying on the site, so your posting will not appear immediately

Gardenate App

Put Gardenate in your pocket. Get our app for iPhone, iPad or Android to add your own plants and record your plantings and harvests

Planting Reminders

Join 60,000+ gardeners who already use Gardenate and subscribe to the free Gardenate planting reminders email newsletter.


Home | Vegetables and herbs to plant | Climate zones | About Gardenate | Contact us | Privacy Policy

This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
We cannot help if you are overrun by giant slugs.