Growing Cucumber

cucumis sativis : Cucurbitaceae / the gourd family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S S S S S          
      T T T T T T      
      P P P P P        

(Best months for growing Cucumber in Australia - tropical regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-10 weeks. Cut fruit off with scissors or sharp knife.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Nasturtiums, Beans, Celery, Lettuce, Sweet Corn, Cabbages, Sunflowers, Coriander, Fennel, Dill, Sunflowers
  • Avoid growing close to: Potato, Tomatoes

Your comments and tips

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03 Jul 18, Mike L (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
It is a bit like going for a swim in winter compared to summer. It is a spring crop - not winter. It says plant from August - that is only 4 weeks away. There is a reason why you plant at a certain time - different plants need different temperatures to grow - to achieve the best results.
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17 Apr 18, Merinda (Australia - temperate climate)
I am getting lots of flowers on my plant and they are turning into fruit, but die at about 2cm, why? How do I get more fruit, I only got 1 cucumber that grew to 10cm
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18 Apr 18, John Macmahon (Australia - temperate climate)
This may be a bit late for this year but my best suggestion is that after one or two fruit (cucumbers) on each runner have set, pinch off the end of the runner. This means the plant puts its resources into the fruit instead of growing a longer runner. Cheers Arismac
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18 Apr 18, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
The flower with no fruit is a male flower. The flower with a small cue is the female flower - if it is not pollinated then it dies. You probably no bees (or more like very few of them) in your area. You might have to hand pollinate each day. Or plant some bee attracting flowers to encourage more bees to come to your area.
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19 Apr 18, Mac (Australia - temperate climate)
Plant some Basil and let it flower. Bees just love it and they will keep coming back for most of the summer and autumn. Solved my problem with all my Curcurbits (melons, cucumbers, pumpkins, etc)
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22 Apr 18, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I will try that. Over the summer I had about 20 sun jewel flowers plants in my garden, with hundreds if not thousands of flower heads - saw about two bees all summer. The bee population has taken a massive hit world wide I hear.
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14 Sep 18, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I planted borage about 4 mths ago and it has attracted a lot of bees. I recently planted some more bee attracting flowers.
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20 Feb 18, Jim (Australia - temperate climate)
What is the best variety to grow in the Bendigo area to make cucumber pickles (4-6kgs per batch)
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21 Feb 18, John (Australia - temperate climate)
We grow a variety called Biet Alpha and picked copious amounts of cucumbers off it. It is a more traditional green cucumber with bristle patches on the skin. The cucumbers were about 15-18 cm long but the size is certainly compensated by the yield.
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20 Feb 18, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Go to internet seed selling companies - Boondie Seed, Collection, New Life and look through the varieties there. You need a burping variety I have read.
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Showing 81 - 90 of 387 comments
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The rules of companion planting indicate that cucumbers and tomatoes/potatoes should not be planted in close proximity to one another. Let's consider what companion planting is all about first. 1. Companion planting is about creating a diversity in the garden that reduces the chances of PESTs/disease wiping out your garden. So in CP you don't plant things that are prone to the same diseases or attract the same pests close together. In the case of cukes and tomatoes it is: fusarium wilt and powdery mildew. (there could be more things...but this is enough that you have violated one of CP rules). 2. CP is about nutrition in the soil -- that is, you would not plant two things in close proximity that both require heavy amount of any particular mineral/vitamin. So for example if both plants are heavy feeders of potassium -- clearly they would compete too heavily for this resource most likely all plants would not get enough potassium. Cucumbers are heavy feeders and require lots of nitrogen and potassium. Pale, yellowish leaves indicate nitrogen deficiency. Leaf bronzing is a sign of potassium deficiency. Potatoes LOVE potassium, and low levels of potassium cause hollow heart (the middle of the potatoes looks like it is rotting), further the potato plant needs ALL it's potassium at the early stages (BEFORE setting tubers). Potatoes are also HEAVY feeders. Tomatoes are HEAVY feeders. So CP says not to plant heavy feeders next to each other... they compete to much for nutrition. Ok, so now you know why CP says not to plant these plants next to each other. The question then becomes.... but CAN I still do it knowing about the wilt and mildew and potassium and general heavy feeding of all the plants.... SURE, BUT be sure to add lots of nutrition to the soil (compost/manure) add lots of potassium (before planting mainly) and be sure to top up the nutrition during the growing phases... so maybe add manure/compost before planting, mid season and again when fruit starts setting. Also all these plants LOVE water... and lots of it, and this to me, makes it convenient when watering, to have my water lovers all in one spot... that way I can just dump a 5 gallon bucket of water int he middle of them. Also, careful how you trellis the cucumber, you don't want to create a roof over the tomatoes/potatoes that will hold moisture and encourage the mildews.

- Celeste Archer

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