Growing Cucumber

cucumis sativis : Cucurbitaceae / the gourd family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
S S           S S S S S
T T T           T T T T
P P             P P P P

(Best months for growing Cucumber in Australia - sub-tropical regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-10 weeks. Cut fruit off with scissors or sharp knife.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Nasturtiums, Beans, Celery, Lettuce, Sweet Corn, Cabbages, Sunflowers, Coriander, Fennel, Dill, Sunflowers
  • Avoid growing close to: Potato, Tomatoes

Your comments and tips

22 Feb 19, Michael (Australia - temperate climate)
You have left it very late to plant. You may or may not grow a crop - you can try. No idea on the rat problem. Look on the internet - but gee Ratsack works - you are going to kill them anyhow, does it really matter how.
26 Sep 19, Natalie (Australia - temperate climate)
Yeah, ratsak kills the rats! and the owls that eat them :(
06 Feb 19, Sue Proctor (Australia - temperate climate)
Borage is a great plant for attracting bees ..they absolutely love it. It’s a very hardy plant with lovely blue flowers but it can reseed and spread around the garden
06 Feb 19, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I grew borage last year in the winter - grew tall 1.2m high and bushy - fell over everywhere. Had to stake and rope it. A bit turned off by that. Bees love it. I now grow a perennial basil for bees. Will have my own bee hive in a few months.
31 Dec 18, Denise Jackson (Australia - temperate climate)
I have Tomatoes and Apple Cucumbers growing in the same veggie garden. Cucumbers are about 50 or 60 cm behind the tomatoes. I have them on a vine but the leaves and flowers or fruit keep dying slowly from the bottom of stem gradually going up. The leaves at the top half are still green and flowering have found little bugs maybe aphids or little spiders on the back of the green leaves. Does anyone know what they are or how to get rid of them. Tomatoes are growing and fruiting fine. Are they the problem?
05 Jan 19, Mike Logan (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
If you read the notes here on cucumbers it says don't grow close to tomatoes. Could be cucumber fly problem if leaves are being eaten.
08 Nov 18, Marilyn (Australia - temperate climate)
What is the best variety of cuumber to grow on a trellis the position has full morning sun
13 Nov 18, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have just grown crystal apple cuies - a lot better taste than the green ones I believe. Available Boondie seeds.
13 Nov 18, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Try any variety. Prefer all day sun.
02 Nov 18, Sue (Australia - temperate climate)
Would 1/1.5 metres be too close to climbing tomato plant
Showing 61 - 70 of 387 comments

The rules of companion planting indicate that cucumbers and tomatoes/potatoes should not be planted in close proximity to one another. Let's consider what companion planting is all about first. 1. Companion planting is about creating a diversity in the garden that reduces the chances of PESTs/disease wiping out your garden. So in CP you don't plant things that are prone to the same diseases or attract the same pests close together. In the case of cukes and tomatoes it is: fusarium wilt and powdery mildew. (there could be more things...but this is enough that you have violated one of CP rules). 2. CP is about nutrition in the soil -- that is, you would not plant two things in close proximity that both require heavy amount of any particular mineral/vitamin. So for example if both plants are heavy feeders of potassium -- clearly they would compete too heavily for this resource most likely all plants would not get enough potassium. Cucumbers are heavy feeders and require lots of nitrogen and potassium. Pale, yellowish leaves indicate nitrogen deficiency. Leaf bronzing is a sign of potassium deficiency. Potatoes LOVE potassium, and low levels of potassium cause hollow heart (the middle of the potatoes looks like it is rotting), further the potato plant needs ALL it's potassium at the early stages (BEFORE setting tubers). Potatoes are also HEAVY feeders. Tomatoes are HEAVY feeders. So CP says not to plant heavy feeders next to each other... they compete to much for nutrition. Ok, so now you know why CP says not to plant these plants next to each other. The question then becomes.... but CAN I still do it knowing about the wilt and mildew and potassium and general heavy feeding of all the plants.... SURE, BUT be sure to add lots of nutrition to the soil (compost/manure) add lots of potassium (before planting mainly) and be sure to top up the nutrition during the growing phases... so maybe add manure/compost before planting, mid season and again when fruit starts setting. Also all these plants LOVE water... and lots of it, and this to me, makes it convenient when watering, to have my water lovers all in one spot... that way I can just dump a 5 gallon bucket of water int he middle of them. Also, careful how you trellis the cucumber, you don't want to create a roof over the tomatoes/potatoes that will hold moisture and encourage the mildews.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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