Growing Cucumber

cucumis sativis : Cucurbitaceae / the gourd family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      S S              
        T T T          
        P P            

(Best months for growing Cucumber in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-10 weeks. Cut fruit off with scissors or sharp knife.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Nasturtiums, Beans, Celery, Lettuce, Sweet Corn, Cabbages, Sunflowers, Coriander, Fennel, Dill, Sunflowers
  • Avoid growing close to: Potato, Tomatoes

Your comments and tips

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06 Feb 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Most varieties of apple cucumber are ripe when the greenish tinge has gone and they are a clear white. When they are overripe they go yellowish and are often bitter. This would apply to most apple cucumbers but there are some more recent varieties available that are green when they are ripe and some that are a golden, almost brown colour. Trust this helps.
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31 Jan 17, Norm Colless (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi, I have apple cucumbers growing vigorously and with heaps of male flowers but no female flowers. What can I do please
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04 Feb 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
I don't know of anything that will induce cucumbers, pumpkins, squash, etc to produce female flowers. Male flowers are always produced first but it is very frustrating. Female flowers generally appear as the season becomes consistently warmer. Trust this helps.
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23 Feb 17, Pete (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
You can encourage pumpkins to put out more female flowers by snipping the growing end off after about 1.5 to 2m of vine. This made side shoots, which tend to make more females.
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27 Jan 17, Sue Barnes (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Could you please tell me when to plant Suyo Long Cucumber in Brisbane, should i put in jiffy pots to start or straight in ground where they are to grow.
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05 Feb 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Direct sowing is always the best but Jiffy pots are OK. (They do not like root disturbance that can occur with transplanting from trays). They don't like frost but that shouldn't be a problem in Brisbane and as they are very mildew susceptible they don't like overhead watering. Good air circulation and ground watering are good ways to reduce mildew problems. Trust this helps.
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26 Jan 17, Harry (Australia - tropical climate)
How do you tell the difference between a female and male flower
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28 Jan 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
On all cucurbits which include cucumbers, melons, squash, pumpkins and zucchinis the female flower has a small fruit behind the flower. the male flowers, which contain pollen, do not and are generally on longer thinner stems. If the female flower is pollinated (fertilised) by pollen from the male flower the fruit will continue to develop to maturity
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07 Jan 17, Lynda Allan (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
My cucumbers have flowers and start to develop fruit and then when very small go yellow and die.
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12 Jan 17, Anna (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Your cucumbers havent been properly pollinated. I suggest you get a small paintbrush and pollinate them by taking some pollen from the male flower and applying it to the female flower.I use this method with pumpkins and watermelon too
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The rules of companion planting indicate that cucumbers and tomatoes/potatoes should not be planted in close proximity to one another. Let's consider what companion planting is all about first. 1. Companion planting is about creating a diversity in the garden that reduces the chances of PESTs/disease wiping out your garden. So in CP you don't plant things that are prone to the same diseases or attract the same pests close together. In the case of cukes and tomatoes it is: fusarium wilt and powdery mildew. (there could be more things...but this is enough that you have violated one of CP rules). 2. CP is about nutrition in the soil -- that is, you would not plant two things in close proximity that both require heavy amount of any particular mineral/vitamin. So for example if both plants are heavy feeders of potassium -- clearly they would compete too heavily for this resource most likely all plants would not get enough potassium. Cucumbers are heavy feeders and require lots of nitrogen and potassium. Pale, yellowish leaves indicate nitrogen deficiency. Leaf bronzing is a sign of potassium deficiency. Potatoes LOVE potassium, and low levels of potassium cause hollow heart (the middle of the potatoes looks like it is rotting), further the potato plant needs ALL it's potassium at the early stages (BEFORE setting tubers). Potatoes are also HEAVY feeders. Tomatoes are HEAVY feeders. So CP says not to plant heavy feeders next to each other... they compete to much for nutrition. Ok, so now you know why CP says not to plant these plants next to each other. The question then becomes.... but CAN I still do it knowing about the wilt and mildew and potassium and general heavy feeding of all the plants.... SURE, BUT be sure to add lots of nutrition to the soil (compost/manure) add lots of potassium (before planting mainly) and be sure to top up the nutrition during the growing phases... so maybe add manure/compost before planting, mid season and again when fruit starts setting. Also all these plants LOVE water... and lots of it, and this to me, makes it convenient when watering, to have my water lovers all in one spot... that way I can just dump a 5 gallon bucket of water int he middle of them. Also, careful how you trellis the cucumber, you don't want to create a roof over the tomatoes/potatoes that will hold moisture and encourage the mildews.

- Celeste Archer

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