Growing Cucumber

cucumis sativis : Cucurbitaceae / the gourd family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      S S              
        T T T          
        P P            

(Best months for growing Cucumber in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-10 weeks. Cut fruit off with scissors or sharp knife.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Nasturtiums, Beans, Celery, Lettuce, Sweet Corn, Cabbages, Sunflowers, Coriander, Fennel, Dill, Sunflowers
  • Avoid growing close to: Potato, Tomatoes

Your comments and tips

31 Dec 21, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
About 4-5mths or so. Generally the soil will run out of nutrient.
18 Nov 21, Karen (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi. I’ve planted my Lebanese cucumber in my garden bed about 3 weeks ago around middle of October. I’m in south australia. The plant is about 1/2 inch . I feel that nothing is happening . No growth. What should I do. New Gardner.
27 Dec 21, Fiona (Australia - temperate climate)
Ours were very slow to start this year due to our unusually cool temperatures. But have now started to take off and produce fruit. We are southern fleurieu.
20 Nov 21, Nigel (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I plant mine a bit earlier and found that they take a fair bit of time to take off. Plenty of water and a good fertilizer will move them along. I use Power Feed liquid fertilizer and get great results
19 Nov 21, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
The first leaves that come out of the seed are called cotyledons. The next set of leaves are call the first set of true leaves, these can take a few days (6-10) to appear. You may need to look at do you have good rich soil, do you water regularly, do they receive plenty of sunlight.
25 Aug 21, Sandra (South Africa - Dry summer sub-tropical climate)
I planted cucumber seeds in a seed pot what size or when should I transplant them into the garden? I live in Pretoria.
07 Sep 21, (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate)
4-6 true leaves.
23 Mar 21, B (USA - Zone 8b climate)
My cucumber are starting to vine and was wondering I’m in zone 8b it’s still cool here would they be alright
14 Mar 21, Kylee Slocum (USA - Zone 4b climate)
I want to grow cucumbers from seed in a 24” container. Can you help me with when I should start them. I am in 4b zone.
15 Mar 21, (USA - Zone 4b climate)
Check the calendar planting guide on the cucumber page.
Showing 51 - 60 of 497 comments

The rules of companion planting indicate that cucumbers and tomatoes/potatoes should not be planted in close proximity to one another. Let's consider what companion planting is all about first. 1. Companion planting is about creating a diversity in the garden that reduces the chances of PESTs/disease wiping out your garden. So in CP you don't plant things that are prone to the same diseases or attract the same pests close together. In the case of cukes and tomatoes it is: fusarium wilt and powdery mildew. (there could be more things...but this is enough that you have violated one of CP rules). 2. CP is about nutrition in the soil -- that is, you would not plant two things in close proximity that both require heavy amount of any particular mineral/vitamin. So for example if both plants are heavy feeders of potassium -- clearly they would compete too heavily for this resource most likely all plants would not get enough potassium. Cucumbers are heavy feeders and require lots of nitrogen and potassium. Pale, yellowish leaves indicate nitrogen deficiency. Leaf bronzing is a sign of potassium deficiency. Potatoes LOVE potassium, and low levels of potassium cause hollow heart (the middle of the potatoes looks like it is rotting), further the potato plant needs ALL it's potassium at the early stages (BEFORE setting tubers). Potatoes are also HEAVY feeders. Tomatoes are HEAVY feeders. So CP says not to plant heavy feeders next to each other... they compete to much for nutrition. Ok, so now you know why CP says not to plant these plants next to each other. The question then becomes.... but CAN I still do it knowing about the wilt and mildew and potassium and general heavy feeding of all the plants.... SURE, BUT be sure to add lots of nutrition to the soil (compost/manure) add lots of potassium (before planting mainly) and be sure to top up the nutrition during the growing phases... so maybe add manure/compost before planting, mid season and again when fruit starts setting. Also all these plants LOVE water... and lots of it, and this to me, makes it convenient when watering, to have my water lovers all in one spot... that way I can just dump a 5 gallon bucket of water int he middle of them. Also, careful how you trellis the cucumber, you don't want to create a roof over the tomatoes/potatoes that will hold moisture and encourage the mildews.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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