Growing Cucumber

cucumis sativis : Cucurbitaceae / the gourd family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S S S              
      T T T T          
      P P P            

(Best months for growing Cucumber in USA - Zone 7a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-10 weeks. Cut fruit off with scissors or sharp knife.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Nasturtiums, Beans, Celery, Lettuce, Sweet Corn, Cabbages, Sunflowers, Coriander, Fennel, Dill, Sunflowers
  • Avoid growing close to: Potato, Tomatoes

Your comments and tips

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15 Dec 10, Arthur Davis (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have a very healthy lebanese cucumber vine but no fruit - what do I need to do to fix this?
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20 Nov 10, Di Liversidge (Australia - tropical climate)
I have lots of small cuces on the plants but they go yellow and rot when they are still about 3cms long. What's wrong with them? The plants have lots and lots of flowers and look healthy. It's wet season in Darwin so they are getting plenty of water and are in a rectangular pot with plenty of drainage.
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21 Nov 10, Sri (Australia - temperate climate)
You may also want to consider little bugs chewing the stems behind your cuces try spraying them with some dipel or pest oil some of the bugs are so tiny its difficult to see them and with it being the wet season where you are caterpillars could also be the culprit. Also if you have used seeds that you have saved or been given by someone else it could be a case of them being a hybrid which means they wont produce.
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21 Nov 10, (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
It could be that the flowers aren't getting pollinated. You could chase some bees in the right direction or brush the male flowers (with a straight stem and no bulge behind the flower) onto the female flowers (which will have a tiny cucumber behind them).
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18 Nov 10, Russell (Australia - temperate climate)
I planted (seedlings) 4 cucumbers and 6 zucchinis (Zs) in deep well nourished soil (Bokashied food scraps) in an area about 140 X 90cm, put 4 180cm stakes at the corners and strung wire horizontally at 20cm intervals to support the Z leaves which are huge. During growth I am removing many of the Z leaves to let the sun in. I spray any powdery mildew (pm) with Echo Rose which 'eats' pm (and black spot). Fantastic results. Not like last year when the Zs went all over the place on the ground with stacks of pm
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28 Jul 10, Darren (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Has anyone tried growing the armenian type cucumbers up in brisbane if so did you grow on a trellis
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13 Apr 13, Alex (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Heya did you ever find about growing these? They sound amazing and I was considering giving it a shot on the GC Hinterland.
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28 Jul 10, Chris (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I grew them in Armidale (cool climate) last summer. They did fine growing sprawling across the ground.
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16 May 10, Phil (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I've heard that leaving sliced or whole cucumber in the garden helps to ward off bugs and beasties. Is this true?
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05 Jun 10, Martyn (Australia - temperate climate)
We've had success with sliced cucumber on aluminium trays. Maybe its the taste (to the slugs and snails) or a chemical reaction with the Al but they've stayed away
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The rules of companion planting indicate that cucumbers and tomatoes/potatoes should not be planted in close proximity to one another. Let's consider what companion planting is all about first. 1. Companion planting is about creating a diversity in the garden that reduces the chances of PESTs/disease wiping out your garden. So in CP you don't plant things that are prone to the same diseases or attract the same pests close together. In the case of cukes and tomatoes it is: fusarium wilt and powdery mildew. (there could be more things...but this is enough that you have violated one of CP rules). 2. CP is about nutrition in the soil -- that is, you would not plant two things in close proximity that both require heavy amount of any particular mineral/vitamin. So for example if both plants are heavy feeders of potassium -- clearly they would compete too heavily for this resource most likely all plants would not get enough potassium. Cucumbers are heavy feeders and require lots of nitrogen and potassium. Pale, yellowish leaves indicate nitrogen deficiency. Leaf bronzing is a sign of potassium deficiency. Potatoes LOVE potassium, and low levels of potassium cause hollow heart (the middle of the potatoes looks like it is rotting), further the potato plant needs ALL it's potassium at the early stages (BEFORE setting tubers). Potatoes are also HEAVY feeders. Tomatoes are HEAVY feeders. So CP says not to plant heavy feeders next to each other... they compete to much for nutrition. Ok, so now you know why CP says not to plant these plants next to each other. The question then becomes.... but CAN I still do it knowing about the wilt and mildew and potassium and general heavy feeding of all the plants.... SURE, BUT be sure to add lots of nutrition to the soil (compost/manure) add lots of potassium (before planting mainly) and be sure to top up the nutrition during the growing phases... so maybe add manure/compost before planting, mid season and again when fruit starts setting. Also all these plants LOVE water... and lots of it, and this to me, makes it convenient when watering, to have my water lovers all in one spot... that way I can just dump a 5 gallon bucket of water int he middle of them. Also, careful how you trellis the cucumber, you don't want to create a roof over the tomatoes/potatoes that will hold moisture and encourage the mildews.

- Celeste Archer

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