Growing Cucumber

cucumis sativis : Cucurbitaceae / the gourd family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      S S              
        T T T          
        P P            

(Best months for growing Cucumber in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-10 weeks. Cut fruit off with scissors or sharp knife.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Nasturtiums, Beans, Celery, Lettuce, Sweet Corn, Cabbages, Sunflowers, Coriander, Fennel, Dill, Sunflowers
  • Avoid growing close to: Potato, Tomatoes

Your comments and tips

10 Feb 13, Jake (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
You can spray the container with a surface spray that will kill them as they go in and out, but another option is to submerge the container in water for a few hours. The ants will leave.
16 Sep 13, ej (Australia - temperate climate)
When potting up, cover each drainage hole with a used tea bag. It will keep both the ants & the worms out.
05 Feb 13, Alison (Australia - temperate climate)
Im growing cucumber in large,deep,planting bags. I planted 8 seedlings about a week ago and they are in a full sun position, I water them twice a day ( not flood them probably about a cup each ) I have lost 3 so far, its almost as if they have been sprayed with weed killer, they have just curled up and shrivelled away. Can you advice me on how to save the last 5 plants.
03 Feb 13, Margaret Hamilton (Australia - temperate climate)
Why are my cucumbers only producing male flowers?
02 Feb 13, Barbara Mewburn (Australia - temperate climate)
The apple cucumbers have grown with very flat -almost fluted main stems, with many cucumbers on them. (I've never seen anything like it.) They are all dissapointingly bitter. some are growing up the fence, the rest are growing very low to the ground. My husband has watered them every second day overhead. I suspect that they haven't been watered deeply enough. He is reluctant to put in the watering system, he likes watering by hand. Now many of the leaves are rotting in one patch. He has grown cucumbers successfully before. Thankyou, in anticipation.
09 Feb 13, David Kiefel (Australia - temperate climate)
I have read recently that cucumbers like a deep watering which apparently assists in making them less bitter... seems to be working so far.
02 Feb 13, Karl Swadek (Australia - temperate climate)
How do you know when the apple cucumber is ready to pick, it is about 12cm long.
11 Jan 13, Peter (Australia - temperate climate)
why some cucumbers are bitter
25 Jan 13, Ian (Australia - temperate climate)
Two reasons not enough water. You have possibly let them dry out Second picked them to late
21 Dec 12, allen lee (Australia - temperate climate)
The reason cues may go yellow could be if grown on the ground the fruit doesn't get enough light and as it throws out more leaves it becomes more shadowed try growing on trellis and cut away any yellowing leaves allow light into bush also give good spray with seasol (seaweed) & eco fungicide.
Showing 351 - 360 of 497 comments

The rules of companion planting indicate that cucumbers and tomatoes/potatoes should not be planted in close proximity to one another. Let's consider what companion planting is all about first. 1. Companion planting is about creating a diversity in the garden that reduces the chances of PESTs/disease wiping out your garden. So in CP you don't plant things that are prone to the same diseases or attract the same pests close together. In the case of cukes and tomatoes it is: fusarium wilt and powdery mildew. (there could be more things...but this is enough that you have violated one of CP rules). 2. CP is about nutrition in the soil -- that is, you would not plant two things in close proximity that both require heavy amount of any particular mineral/vitamin. So for example if both plants are heavy feeders of potassium -- clearly they would compete too heavily for this resource most likely all plants would not get enough potassium. Cucumbers are heavy feeders and require lots of nitrogen and potassium. Pale, yellowish leaves indicate nitrogen deficiency. Leaf bronzing is a sign of potassium deficiency. Potatoes LOVE potassium, and low levels of potassium cause hollow heart (the middle of the potatoes looks like it is rotting), further the potato plant needs ALL it's potassium at the early stages (BEFORE setting tubers). Potatoes are also HEAVY feeders. Tomatoes are HEAVY feeders. So CP says not to plant heavy feeders next to each other... they compete to much for nutrition. Ok, so now you know why CP says not to plant these plants next to each other. The question then becomes.... but CAN I still do it knowing about the wilt and mildew and potassium and general heavy feeding of all the plants.... SURE, BUT be sure to add lots of nutrition to the soil (compost/manure) add lots of potassium (before planting mainly) and be sure to top up the nutrition during the growing phases... so maybe add manure/compost before planting, mid season and again when fruit starts setting. Also all these plants LOVE water... and lots of it, and this to me, makes it convenient when watering, to have my water lovers all in one spot... that way I can just dump a 5 gallon bucket of water int he middle of them. Also, careful how you trellis the cucumber, you don't want to create a roof over the tomatoes/potatoes that will hold moisture and encourage the mildews.

- Celeste Archer

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