Growing Cucumber

cucumis sativis : Cucurbitaceae / the gourd family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S S S S S          
      T T T T T T      
      P P P P P        

(Best months for growing Cucumber in Australia - tropical regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-10 weeks. Cut fruit off with scissors or sharp knife.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Nasturtiums, Beans, Celery, Lettuce, Sweet Corn, Cabbages, Sunflowers, Coriander, Fennel, Dill, Sunflowers
  • Avoid growing close to: Potato, Tomatoes

Your comments and tips

02 Jan 16, tastyvish (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
You can hand pollinate which will increase the chances of having more production.Alternatively if you garden is bees friendly then they could pollinate too.
06 Dec 15, garry mcleod (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi, Approximately one month ago I planted some cystal apple cucumbers which are thriving, however, I have noticed that something is eating the leaves and there seems to be some small dot larvi in the leaves. Can I spray them with white oil? Do I need something stronger to kill them but not harm the plant? Regards Garry
11 Dec 15, Bill (Australia - temperate climate)
you can use tomato dust to get rid of any grubs that may be eating the leaves, it will not hurt the plant, just remember to wash it before you eat it. i grow them here in the deep south of nsw, they grow fast and i use liquid fertiliser onces a week when they have there fruit on them.
16 Jan 16, olly (Australia - temperate climate)
no don't use tomato dust it says specifically on the package not to use on cucumbers it is also harmful to bees which do the pollinating. if its caterpillars try just picking them off if it's white fly it can be hard I just try keeping their numbers down by picking the worst leaves off and giving the rest a good high pressure squirt with the hose
06 Dec 15, frank glennon (Australia - tropical climate)
I have 2 cucumber plants which are about 2 feet high with plenty of flowers I have picked 2 about 4ii long but now all my leaves have gone prickly and brown/yellow what should I do
17 Dec 15, Paul (Australia - arid climate)
Keep the watering at the base, not on the plant or mildew will set in. I mulch around the three seeds I've planted in a shallow depression to hold the water (arid here remember), thin to two and as the vines spread move them clockwise around itself to keep compact and to aid flower fertilisation and fruit development till it looks like a green pyramid or cone. Every year I get great Apple and Lebanese cucumbers using this method. Forgot where your seeds are germinating from? Jam a stake in the ground at the source so you can throw the hose into it.
30 Oct 15, Amit Bissa (Australia - arid climate)
I had two of them together. Before I planted cucumbers, tomatoes were growing good had 15 fruits on them. As soon as cucumbers were introduced. Tomatoes stopped growing and the fruits wilted quickly.
03 Jan 16, Loren (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I just read that you should avoid planting cucumbers with tomatoes.
11 Dec 15, Bill (Australia - temperate climate)
remove lower dieing leaves, will not hurt the plant
29 Oct 15, Cheryl (Australia - temperate climate)
I .have cucumbers and tomatoes in same garden, I just read they.shouldn't be. What will happen
Showing 261 - 270 of 497 comments

The rules of companion planting indicate that cucumbers and tomatoes/potatoes should not be planted in close proximity to one another. Let's consider what companion planting is all about first. 1. Companion planting is about creating a diversity in the garden that reduces the chances of PESTs/disease wiping out your garden. So in CP you don't plant things that are prone to the same diseases or attract the same pests close together. In the case of cukes and tomatoes it is: fusarium wilt and powdery mildew. (there could be more things...but this is enough that you have violated one of CP rules). 2. CP is about nutrition in the soil -- that is, you would not plant two things in close proximity that both require heavy amount of any particular mineral/vitamin. So for example if both plants are heavy feeders of potassium -- clearly they would compete too heavily for this resource most likely all plants would not get enough potassium. Cucumbers are heavy feeders and require lots of nitrogen and potassium. Pale, yellowish leaves indicate nitrogen deficiency. Leaf bronzing is a sign of potassium deficiency. Potatoes LOVE potassium, and low levels of potassium cause hollow heart (the middle of the potatoes looks like it is rotting), further the potato plant needs ALL it's potassium at the early stages (BEFORE setting tubers). Potatoes are also HEAVY feeders. Tomatoes are HEAVY feeders. So CP says not to plant heavy feeders next to each other... they compete to much for nutrition. Ok, so now you know why CP says not to plant these plants next to each other. The question then becomes.... but CAN I still do it knowing about the wilt and mildew and potassium and general heavy feeding of all the plants.... SURE, BUT be sure to add lots of nutrition to the soil (compost/manure) add lots of potassium (before planting mainly) and be sure to top up the nutrition during the growing phases... so maybe add manure/compost before planting, mid season and again when fruit starts setting. Also all these plants LOVE water... and lots of it, and this to me, makes it convenient when watering, to have my water lovers all in one spot... that way I can just dump a 5 gallon bucket of water int he middle of them. Also, careful how you trellis the cucumber, you don't want to create a roof over the tomatoes/potatoes that will hold moisture and encourage the mildews.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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