Growing Cucumber

cucumis sativis : Cucurbitaceae / the gourd family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      S S              
        T T T          
        P P            

(Best months for growing Cucumber in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-10 weeks. Cut fruit off with scissors or sharp knife.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Nasturtiums, Beans, Celery, Lettuce, Sweet Corn, Cabbages, Sunflowers, Coriander, Fennel, Dill, Sunflowers
  • Avoid growing close to: Potato, Tomatoes

Your comments and tips

11 Nov 23, Anne (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Morning I can’t post a pic by looks of it but I’m a learner gardener and have cucumber growing but the leaves look Like they have some sort of fungus on them so not sure on how to fix it
25 Nov 23, (Australia - temperate climate)
Google fungus on cucumbers. It comes up with powdery mildew - see if the photos look the same as your cucumbers.
18 Aug 23, Sakkie pieterse (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate)
How many fruit can you take from one cumcumer plant
18 Jul 24, Robert (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate)
I grew Ashley cucumbers, and got between 15 to 18 fruit per plant.
11 Aug 23, Ingrid (Australia - temperate climate)
Some websites suggest planting cucumber seeds directly into garden bed, other sites say start in trays. Which is correct ? Thank you.
20 Aug 23, Anonymous (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Can do it both ways.
22 Mar 23, Tankiso (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate)
Why is it bad to plant cucumber near tomatoes or potatoes?
26 Apr 23, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 5a Temperate Warm Summer climate)
The rules of companion planting indicate that cucumbers and tomatoes/potatoes should not be planted in close proximity to one another. Let's consider what companion planting is all about first. 1. Companion planting is about creating a diversity in the garden that reduces the chances of PESTs/disease wiping out your garden. So in CP you don't plant things that are prone to the same diseases or attract the same pests close together. In the case of cukes and tomatoes it is: fusarium wilt and powdery mildew. (there could be more things...but this is enough that you have violated one of CP rules). 2. CP is about nutrition in the soil -- that is, you would not plant two things in close proximity that both require heavy amount of any particular mineral/vitamin. So for example if both plants are heavy feeders of potassium -- clearly they would compete too heavily for this resource most likely all plants would not get enough potassium. Cucumbers are heavy feeders and require lots of nitrogen and potassium. Pale, yellowish leaves indicate nitrogen deficiency. Leaf bronzing is a sign of potassium deficiency. Potatoes LOVE potassium, and low levels of potassium cause hollow heart (the middle of the potatoes looks like it is rotting), further the potato plant needs ALL it's potassium at the early stages (BEFORE setting tubers). Potatoes are also HEAVY feeders. Tomatoes are HEAVY feeders. So CP says not to plant heavy feeders next to each other... they compete to much for nutrition. Ok, so now you know why CP says not to plant these plants next to each other. The question then becomes.... but CAN I still do it knowing about the wilt and mildew and potassium and general heavy feeding of all the plants.... SURE, BUT be sure to add lots of nutrition to the soil (compost/manure) add lots of potassium (before planting mainly) and be sure to top up the nutrition during the growing phases... so maybe add manure/compost before planting, mid season and again when fruit starts setting. Also all these plants LOVE water... and lots of it, and this to me, makes it convenient when watering, to have my water lovers all in one spot... that way I can just dump a 5 gallon bucket of water int he middle of them. Also, careful how you trellis the cucumber, you don't want to create a roof over the tomatoes/potatoes that will hold moisture and encourage the mildews.
08 Mar 23, Eric (Canada - Zone 3b Temperate Warm Summer climate)
Is the "Tasty Green" variety an indoor variety or an outdoor variety? Because I heard you have to pinch off the male flowers for indoor varieties or the cucumbers will taste bitter, and for outdoor varieties, the cucumbers will require pollination.
09 Feb 23, Wayne (Australia - temperate climate)
Cucamelons in Adelaide: I’m having varied success with growing Cucamelons in Wicking Beds. The major issue is that the leaves turn yellow and then die. Samples taken to local nurseries have failed to identify the issue, with insect, disease or virus. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Showing 11 - 20 of 495 comments

I've had success growing cucumbers across straw. In contact with the soil they often seem to rot or get ravaged by slugs. You can try companion-planting with sweetcorn, using the growing corn stems as living supports. Plant cucumber seedlings next to the corn when the corn reaches 20 cm or so.

- Chris

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. Gardenate is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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