Growing Chilli peppers, also Hot peppers

Capsicum sp. : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
    S                  
        T T            
        P P            

(Best months for growing Chilli peppers in USA - Zone 5a regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • P = Sow seed
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 64°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 20 inches apart
  • Harvest in 9-11 weeks. Wear gloves to pick 'hot' chillies.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Best grown in a separate bed as chillies need plenty of light and air circulation.

Your comments and tips

31 Mar 17, (Australia - arid climate)
I use this in temperate Queensland. General all round fert for garden and lawn. Bit low in P but I add a bit more. Go to a farmers fert depot and ask. Buy a 25kg bag, a lot cheaper than shops. $25 for 25 kg at the moment. In a shop 3x the price the other day for 3 kg. CROP KING 88. The fertilizer name. N-P-K-15-4.3-11.3. These indicate that it contains 15% nitrogen, 4. 3% phosphorus and 11. 3% potassium. The forms in which the nutrients are present are indicated in the following table: 15% Nitrogen (N) Ammonia form 4.1% Phosphorus (P) Water Soluble 0.1% Phosphorus (P) Citrate Soluble 0.1% Phosphorus (P) Citrate Insoluble 4.3% Phosphorus (P) Total 11.3% Potassium as Muriate of Potash (i.e. the chloride form) 13.6% Sulphur (S) as Sulphates  48.5%   The remaining 51.5% is made up of elements such as hydrogen, oxygen and carbon that are part of the chemical compounds that contain the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium nutrients.
31 Mar 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Maybe I am biased but I wouldn't use chemical fertilisers like you mention as they destroy soil life. Healthy soil teeming with soil life is the answer. Build your soil up with old manure, compost and any organic matter and 'numbers' won't be necessary.Use crop rotation starting with a leaf crop after you have added manure, etc to the soil. When the leaf crop is finished plant a fruit crop (beans, capsicum, tomatoes zucchini, etc), then finally a root veg crop. Re-fertilise the soil ready to start the cycle again. plants need more than N-P-K and organic matter will achieve this, building up the soil life, increasing the capacity of the soil to hold water, increasing disease resistance and making more micro-nutrients available to your plants. adding some lime in late autumn or winter will also help. Trust this helps.
16 Mar 17, Marie (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
Hello, we had the first frost this morning, my plant is full of big green chilies, is it now time to pick all my chilies or will they still turn red? Also how do i save chilie sead for next year?
17 Mar 17, Jack (Australia - temperate climate)
If the chillies are hit by frost they are likely to rot. I suggest pulling the plants out by the roots and hanging them upside down in a protected spot. This works with tomatoes and at least you would redeem some or most of them. To save seed cut or flick them out and let them dry on some paper towel. Store them in a paper bag or envelope with the name and date on it.
14 Feb 17, Neville Tonkin (Australia - temperate climate)
Where can I obtain large numbers of chilli and pepper seedlings ?
15 Jul 17, mick (Australia - temperate climate)
Why would you waste money when you can buy some chilies let them dry off for maybe a week and then put into water for a day. After that rub through a sieve to separate seeds, let them dry in a shady spot and a couple of weeks later plant out in a seed tray with a sandy mix. When 5 cm high plant in the garden in a sunny spot and mulch well. Start the process in mid winter and I'm sure you'll get a heap of chilies late summer. Be warned though the plants die in prolonged cold conditions from my experience so choose an appropriate spot which gets sun all year around if possible as the plants will produce like mad in the second year if you can nurse them through the winter. Good luck.
15 Feb 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Around Melbourne and in some regional areas of Victoria there are commercial seedling growers who grow seedlings in trays of about 200 per tray. These growers will often sell trays of seedlings from the nursery as a cash sale. Look up 'seedling nurseries' on the internet or send me an email and I will help you. Trust this helps.
01 Jan 17, Lynne Adams (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
Do I nip top stems off to increase side stems and fruit
02 Feb 17, Karen (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
Yes. Not counting the seed leaves I generally let the plant grow to about 8 true leaves then remove the lower 2 (ventilation space under growing plant) and cut the stem leaving 4 true leaves. This results in a stronger stem, more side shoots = more fruit. This works well for me growing one plant per 15L container.
07 Jan 17, Peter (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
If you nip off the stem they will be sturdier plants and I have found they do produce more fruit.
Showing 161 - 170 of 434 comments

Well, I'm not really in Australia; I'm in Thailand, but I was not allowed to put that in. Anyway, I have the exactly the same situation you describe. I cut open several and found some kind of grub or maggot inside. A couple of the peppers had small holes, but on many, I could find no holes or anyway these things could have gotten inside. I do not know what they are, but would like to find out what to do about them. It's pretty disappointing to have a nice crop going, then all of a sudden, they look like they are rotting form the inside and drop off. They are similar to the pepper maggot in the US. But as far as I know, those have never made it to this part of the world.

- John Robertson

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