Growing Carrot

Daucus carota : Apiaceae / the umbelliferae family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
  P P P P P P P P P P  

(Best months for growing Carrot in Australia - sub-tropical regions)

  • P = Sow seed
  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 8°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 5 - 30 cm apart
  • Harvest in 12-18 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Onions, Leeks, Lettuce, Sage, Peas, Radishes, Tomatoes, Beans, Celery, Rosemary
  • Avoid growing close to: Parsnips, Beetroot, Dill, Brassicas, Fennel

Your comments and tips

25 Mar 11, Steve (Australia - temperate climate)
I want to grow carrots and swede in tubs, what sort of soil/compost mixture is best?
24 Mar 11, Harveen (Australia - temperate climate)
i am used to carrots, in a deeper red color much much more juicy, what variety is that? is it available in melbourne? is it heirloom carrots, available here?
30 Jan 12, Alexis (Australia - temperate climate)
Purple dragon? You can buy seeds at thediggersclub dot com dot au
09 Feb 11, Nick Innes (Australia - temperate climate)
What vegetables can i grow in the Adelaide Hills in Feburary that take about 12 weeks to harvest?
09 Feb 11, adam (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I grow carrots really successfully every year, twice a year. We don't have Carrot Fly in Australia, as far as I know.Carrots fork a lot when grown in freshly manured or fertilised soil. I grow them about 15 cm apart, the rows that is. I water the soil after raking it even. Then sow the carrots, and then put old fence palings over them and press them down a bit to get the seeds in contact with the soil. If it's sunny, I water the boards lightly every day for a few days, just to keep them moist. This is the trick to germinating the seeds. After a few days, between four and seven, Icheck by lifting up a board. If you see little green shoots that look like new grass, in the area you sowed the seeds, then you have germinated. I then lift the boards up about two inches or so, and put little bits of something under the boards at the ends to keep them there foe a few more days, to protect the new carrots from excess heat. After that, I just take the boards away, and I seem to get very good germination with this method. Carrots don't have a hard growing tip, so if they have to struggle growing down, they will twist and get weird shapes. Parsnips DO have a very strong growing tip, so I plant them together to get the soil opened up for the carrots. Hope this helps. Cheers.
07 Mar 11, Annerliegh (Australia - temperate climate)
That trick with the parsnips is clever.
14 Apr 11, Paul (Australia - temperate climate)
on this site it says to avoid sowing carrots and parsnips together?
02 Dec 11, Nathan (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I suspect you would plant parsnips at the start of the season, then sows carrots once the parsnips are done. giving you 2 crops from the same piece of soil, pulling the parsnips would make turning the soil easier before planting the carrots. (Unless this is considered a no-no as well?)
05 Jan 11, Michael Mitchell (Australia - temperate climate)
Our group looks after the vegetable garden for our company - a disability service. We manage to grow successfully, - lettuce, shallots, silver beet, spinach, tomatoes and cucumbers. However our carrots fail dismally - they are short and stumpy and grossly misshapen. Can you suggest what is wrong?
19 Apr 11, Ben (Australia - temperate climate)
Possibly because your soil is to hard I've heard that if they can't grow down they come out looking like short stubby midgets
Showing 201 - 210 of 274 comments

You are putting on too much nitrogen fertilise. This will produce a lot of leaf and no carrots. Carrots do not need a really rich soil. Put carrots and beetroot in after a leaf crop like lettuce. When the beetroot are about 200-250mm high you can give them some fertiliser - phosphate rich.

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